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Trey Zoeller smiles when he hears about the soaring popularity for blended bourbon today. The term “blended” was loaded with negative associations when he and his father Chet introduced Jefferson’s Bourbon.
“People associated it with blended whiskies where you can add caramel colouring, vanilla extract or anything like that,” he says.
The Zoellers created their brand in 1997, when bourbon was experiencing a 30-year decline in sales. Trey called on the eight distillers operating in Kentucky to buy barrels, cherry-picking small esoteric lots of bourbon to establish the business.
After a successful launch, they graduated to hiring producers to distill for them five years later.
“We have been blending Kentucky straight bourbon for over 25 years,” explains Zoeller, while visiting Toronto to help relaunch the brand. “We blend different ages, barrels and mash bills [the mix of grains used to make the spirit] to maintain an approachable price from something we think is an elevated product.”
Pernod Ricard acquired the Jefferson’s brand in 2019, which has led to increased sales in the United States and expanded exports. Zoeller says prior to the sale, exports to Canada had been halted to satisfy the demand in the United States, which remains the largest market for American whisky. Canada was the fifth-largest export market in 2023 following the European Union, Australia, Japan and the United Kingdom.
Production continues to increase as the Zoellers work out of a distillery in Kentucky, with a second operation and visitors centre set to open in Marion County next year.
In addition to the company’s blended-bourbon expressions, including reserve, small-batch and different oak-finished whiskies, Jefferson’s is known for its inventive aging techniques, including the Voyage series of spirits aged on board ships at sea.
Jefferson’s introductory bourbon is featured this week, with an assortment of other new and innovative whisky releases. Distillers around the world continue to experiment with different ingredients and maturation techniques to develop new flavours.
Exciting new premium Canadian whiskies by established brands Alberta Distillers and Canadian Club, and relative newcomer Wayne Gretzky are singled out as interesting and enjoyable additions to the fold.
Alberta Distillers Rare Batch, Issue No. 1 (Canada), $149.95
Rare Batch is the inaugural release of an exclusive range of specialty blends from Alberta Distillers showcasing longer aging times and uncommon techniques. No. 1 is a 23-year-old expression of whiskies produced from prairie grains selected to show the complexity and full-bodied character after extensive aging. The result is concentrated and pleasurable notes of brown sugar and cedar with citrus and spice (50-per-cent abv). Available at the above price in Ontario, $134.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $149.75 in Quebec.
Alberta Distillers Batch 10 Legacy Reserve (Canada), $78.95
This specially crafted rye whisky is a blend of stock from 10 different years, from a mix of virgin oak and reused bourbon and Canadian whisky barrels, sourced from 10 aging warehouses on the property. The combination delivers a rich and impressive rye with complex notes suggesting oak (toffee, cocoa, cedar), fruit (pear, dried fruit) and peppery spice. The spirit is pleasantly warming with a palate that’s balanced, sweet and unexpectedly creamy, that carries through to a harmonious finish (42-per-cent abv). It’s scheduled for release this month. Available at the above price in Ontario, Manitoba, New Brunswick, Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland, various prices in Alberta.
Canadian Club Classic 18-Year-Old High Proof (Canada), $89.95
Canadian Club moves from strength to strength with its Invitation Series, which is creating new excitement around its core portfolio. The brand’s first 18-year-old whisky release comes at 58-per-cent abv, which results in a concentrated and rich character. The flavours are dominated oak-derived vanilla, toffee and caramel notes with fruit and spice accents. This limited release is expected to be available across the country in the fall. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta.
Jefferson’s Bourbon (United States), $54.95
This introduction to the Jefferson’s range delivers an easy-to-appreciate bourbon style with balance and admirable length. Classic brown sugar, vanilla and toffee notes mingling with peach and citrus fruit flavour feature prominently. A solid go-to style that works for sipping or mixing. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $60.99 in Manitoba.
The Traveller Blend No. 40 (United States), $48.60
Buffalo Trace’s master distiller Harlan Wheatley and country star Chris Stapleton are responsible for this blended-bourbon brand, which borrows the name of the artist’s breakthrough solo album. It’s made for mass appeal, with mellow but appealing character. Expect a pleasing mix of fruit (pear, dried fruit), spice and oak-derived notes ((vanilla, charred wood) that work best as a mix. Available at the above price in Ontario, $49.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, $50.25 in Quebec, $56.29 in New Brunswick, $54.99 in Nova Scotia and Prince Edward Island, $54.97 in Newfoundland.
Wayne Gretzky Single-Grain Oats Whisky (Canada), $99.99
The Gretzky distillery in Niagara-on-the-Lake has recently introduced the Craftsman series, a new range of small-batch, age-statement whiskies that showcase different grains and barrels. Four casks of an unusual 100-per-cent oat-based spirit were produced in 2018. Released cask strength as a six-year-old whisky, the style shows creamy, rich texture and cereal notes from the grain, with brown sugar, toffee and golden syrup notes from aging in virgin oak barrels. Bottled at 63.24-per-cent abv. This sold out upon release at the estate and online. Available at the above price in Manitoba (as of Nov. 5) and Wine and Beyond in Alberta (Nov. 15).
