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At the risk of repeating myself, the style of wine I reach for changes with the weather. That’s where having a wine collection comes in handy, because the vibrant rosé set out for dinner might not make sense if the sun refuses to shine. Cooler temperatures inspire a thirst for wines with complex character and attitude, starting with these three robust wine styles.
Pinot noir
I find the mix of fruity and savoury flavour in well-made pinot noir really pops in the fall. Examples with an underbrush (described by some as “forest floor,” “fallen leaves” or “mushroom”) or earthy fragrance signify the season to my taste more than pumpkin spice.
Many top Canadian-made pinots convey that damp earth essence as part of their charming and polished character. Red Burgundy does too, but price and scarcity puts most bottles out of reach. Australia, New Zealand and Australia slipstream with the flattering ripe fruit style popularized by California and Oregon.
Drink differently with these less-common red wine styles from Canada and abroad
Producers to watch: 16 Mile, Bachelder, Cave Spring, Closson Chase, Domaine Queylus and Le Clos Jordanne from Ontario; CedarCreek, Martin’s Lane, Spearhead, Quails’ Gate and Unsworth from British Columbia. Astrolabe Marlborough Pinot Noir 2022 ($29.95) and Nuiton-Beaunoy Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2023 ($24.95) are current releases at LCBO Vintages outlets also worth seeking out.
Syrah/Shiraz
Like chardonnay, there’s a syrah for all seasons. But as sweater weather settles in, medium-bodied examples with spicy flavours are temptingly tasty. There’s an abundance to choose from when shopping the Australia shelves. That’s also the style you’ll find in serious bottles from British Columbia and Ontario, which strike me as some of the best red wines this country produces.
The grape variety isn’t well-suited to cold winter temperatures, which dramatically limits the places where it can be planted but thrives during the growing season. Producers to watch: Burrowing Owl, La Vieux Pin, Laughing Stock, Painted Rock, Rainmaker and Stag’s Hollow from British Columbia; Creekside, Fielding and Kacaba from Ontario. Syrah is a strong suit for South Africa. Porcupine Ridge Syrah (available in British Columbia, Alberta, Ontario and Quebec) from Swartland shows terrific complexity and character for less than $20 per bottle.
Viognier
Consumer demand has seen viognier plantings spread from vineyards in France’s Rhône Valley to Australia and around the world. There’s increasing thirst for its distinctive peachy and floral flavour that’s conveyed in rich and full-bodied white wines. Often blended with other varieties, including syrah or shiraz for added perfume and polish, viognier is a compelling solo act.
Affordable examples from Australia’s Yalumba and Chile’s Cono Sur are well-priced and widely available across the country. Otherwise, selection is typically limited and more expensive. Ontario producers, including 13th Street Winery, Creekside, Meldville, MW Cellars and Stratus, have striking examples on offer. An exciting new release comes from Niagara’s Maenad Wine Company, a single-vineyard viognier that was fermented in an acacia wood barrels to amplify the white floral and juicy peach/apricot flavours. It’s a heady, broad and succulent white wine with a suggestion of creaminess.
