Pioneer John Riddoch saw the remote region’s winemaking potential in the 1890s.Supplied
A winemaker at Wynns Coonawarra Estate since 1993, Sue Hodder has spent her storied career raising awareness about the quality of the cabernet sauvignon and other wines produced in the remote southeast corner of South Australia.
“I am just trying to get our stories out there and hope that people will still mindfully have a glass of wine with their dinner and help us keep this heritage alive,” Hodder explained during a stop in Toronto on Sept. 19.
Several natural factors make Coonawarra ideally suited for grape cultivation. The region’s temperatures are regulated by the proximity to the Southern Ocean, the maritime influence provides a long growing season that’s advantageous for late-ripening cabernet sauvignon vines.
For this Niagara winemaker, the local terroir can stand on its own
The area is also famous for a cigar-shaped strip of land — 27 kilometres long and approximately two kilometres wide — where terra rossa (distinctive reddish-brown earth) over limestone soils promotes balanced growth and ripening for red wine varieties, particularly cabernet. (The vines for white grape varieties, chardonnay and riesling, perform better in Coonawarra’s black and brown soil types.)
Wynns was established in the 1950s when David Wynn purchased a parcel of land originally owned by Coonawarra pioneer John Riddoch. Riddoch saw the region’s potential for quality winemaking in the 1890s despite its isolated location. Vineyard development took place in fertile parts of the Barossa, Hunter Valley and Yarra Valley because of their proximity to consumer markets in nearby cities.
Sue Hodder has been a winemaker at Wynns Coonawarra Estate since 1993.Supplied
In 1896, Riddoch built the iconic three-gabled winery depicted on Wynns labels. Wynn rescued that structure in 1951 from being turned into a sheep-shearing shed and produced wines in 1953, 1954 and 1955 — without electricity or running water — that rank amongst Australia’s most celebrated bottles.
Hodder says she’s eager to celebrate the 70th anniversary of Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon (with the release of the 2025 vintage) in two years. The milestone anniversary will include a comprehensive tasting of all 70 vintages to showcase the region’s ability to produce elegant red wines with long-lasting character.
There are lessons in those old bottles. The 60th-anniversary tasting made Wynns’ winemaking team appreciate the character of the lower-alcohol wines produced in the 1950s and 1960s without any new oak (as small oak barrels weren’t commonly available at the time). “We’re motivated by the potential to make medium-bodied cabernets that age gracefully.”
She’s also excited by ongoing research into new grapevines based on cuttings from Wynns’ oldest surviving cabernet sauvignon vineyard, planted in 1954. Selective breeding by Commonwealth Scientific and Industrial Research Organisation (CSIRO) seeks to produce drought-tolerant vines with mildew-resistant traits.
The plant material will boost sustainability efforts, by requiring fewer sprays and less reliance on tractors in the vineyard, Hodder explains.
The Wynns Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon ($50 range in Canada) and the flagship Michael Shiraz ($150 range) and John Riddoch Cabernet Sauvignon ($200 range) are prized by collectors around the world.
The portfolio also includes a range of estate bottled wines, recently rebranded under the Wynvale label, that are great value for the money.
Another label to watch is Wynns Coonawarra Estate The Siding Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, which is currently available at LCBO Vintages outlets for $24.95 and featured at BCLDB locations for $26.99. An expressive and enjoyable cabernet, it offers the polish and pedigree of Wynns Coonawarra’s house style in a red wine that’s ready to drink or a solid option for the cellar (Drink now to 2031).
