Discovering the world of Swiss wine off the shores of Lake Geneva | Canada Voices

Learning that Lausanne, on the shores of Switzerland’s Lake Geneva, is up there with wine hot spots such as Bordeaux and Porto as a member of the Great Wine Capitals network may come as a shock. Swiss wine is often overlooked. “People think of chocolate or cheese or watches, but not wine. We have wine that’s made as well as the knife and the cheese, but we don’t have the recognition,” says Alexandre Fauve, the third-generation winemaker at Cave Borloz, a family estate in Aigle, near Montreux.

The wines Fauve and fellow vintners make in Vaud and other parts of Switzerland don’t travel far. They are greedily consumed at home, with less than one per cent exported. A pilgrimage to the area, the birthplace of the chasselas grape variety, is required to discover what makes its wine so coveted among the Swiss.

All vintages aside, the journey is worth it for the picturesque environs responsible for the distinctive flavours of the scintillating whites and compelling reds produced – and the transportation network that allows visitors to embark on a wine tour without an automobile. Convenient and reliable trains, buses and, even, funiculars will get you where you’re going at a pace that helps you soak in the setting.

The walk from the Boissière train station in the village of Lutry through the steep vineyards of the UNESCO-registered Lavaux region creates a sense of terroir that wouldn’t register whizzing along the motorway. Elaborate Napa-style tasting rooms and bedazzled winery swag aren’t the norm here. Instead, upon reaching your winery destination, you’re often welcomed like family into a dining room for a taste.

Domaine Blaise Duboux, Epesses

Winemaker Blaise Duboux, who worked alongside his father before taking control of the family’s cellar in 2010, produces organic wines from five hectares of vineyards including parcels in the Dézaley Grand Cru and Calamin Grand Cru on extremely steep and sunny terraces overlooking Lake Geneva (known locally as Lac Léman). These celebrated locations were the first vineyard sites in Switzerland to be awarded grand cru status, recognizing their long history of producing exemplary wines. Duboux specializes in chasselas (75 per cent of production) and gamay, including a limited-edition red made from an ancient clone known as plant robez. Like others who work the slopes of Lavaux, Duboux poetically explains that the character of his wines is influenced by three suns: the direct sunshine plus the rays reflected off the lake and from heat stored in terrace walls that’s released at night to warm the vines. blaiseduboux.ch.

Cave du Clos Aimond

A recent oenology school graduate, Julie Martin has joined parents Christine and Marius in the cellars at the family-owned Cave du Clos Aimond. She is the fifth generation to work the three-hectare estate nestled beneath Château d’Aigle. The castle, which has been expanded upon and rebuilt since the twelfth century, is now home to a winemaking museum and hosts an annual competition to determine the world’s best chasselas wines. Many of Clos Aimond’s labels feature artistic renderings of the medieval château and proudly spotlight the winery’s BioSuisse (organic) certification. As expected, there are satisfying expressions of chasselas to enjoy, including the aging-worthy Grand Clos Aimond with its compelling creamy texture. But don’t leave without sampling the growing selection of red wines, especially the stylish pinot noir and gamaret blend and robust divico, an early-ripening black grape bred in Switzerland to be resistant to gray rot and other fungal diseases. cave-du-clos-aimond.ch.

Cave Borloz, Aigle

Alexandre Fauve has expanded the focus of his family’s winemaking operation, adding red wine varieties, such as gamaret and garanoir to vineyards located in the Valais canton. However, tradition rules in the vineyards closest to the winery in Aigle. “Chasselas is the foundation for us,” he says. “Chasselas puts bread on the table.” During a tour of the cellar, he points to clay and terracotta amphoras purchased to increase the texture and complexity of his Petit Clos Aymond 1er Grand Cru. The different vessels help separate the characters between that old vine expression and his other chasselas wine, Le Tard Aigle Grand Cru, with its engaging and thirst-quenching style. “It’s easy to drink,” he says as he pours samples. “It’s perfect with fondue and raclette.” Historically, chasselas’ lighter style was viewed as a wine to enjoy while young, but Fauve says collectors are starting to reserve bottles for their cellars. caveborloz.ch.

PIC au Beau-Rivage Palace, Lausanne

French chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s restaurant network stretches from her native Valence to Hong Kong. The success of eight exceptional kitchens has made Pic the world’s most decorated Michelin-starred female chef, including the two Michelin stars her restaurant at the Beau-Rivage Palace in Lausanne has held since it opened in 2009. The contemporary space is carved into four well-appointed dining areas, with linen covered tables set with elegant tableware including stately Baccarat crystal water glasses. The service is equally polished, especially when it comes to offering gratifying wine pairings for nightly tasting menus featuring dishes that delight with unforeseen tastes and textures. The sommelier team has the luxury of drawing from one of Europe’s largest cellars, with thousands of selections including blue-chip Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy and a treasure trove of the best Swiss labels. They also can suggest captivating cocktail, coffee and tea pairings. brp.ch.

La Chalet du Mont-Pélerin, Chardonne

Any restaurant you can get to riding on a funicular is worth visiting. When the destination is La Chalet du Mont-Pélerin, the cable car trip up the mountain is just part of the fun. Many tourists and locals come to dine while enjoying the expansive views of vineyards, the lake and surrounding mountains. Nearby trails attract birders, hikers and cyclists who come to appreciate the outdoors before a bite. Wine lovers make the trek for an audience with Jerome Aké Béda, an Ivory Coast native and one of Switzerland’s foremost sommeliers, who has been dubbed the Pope of Chasselas. He has been wine director and maître d’ since March, 2024. The wine cellar has flourished under his watch, expanding to include many of Switzerland’s top producers alongside benchmark bottles from Bordeaux and Champagne. There’s every wine style to partner with the traditional Swiss dishes on the menu. lechaletdumontpelerin.ch.

Ze Fork, Vevey

Named for the giant fork sculpture in Lac Léman visible from its extensive terrace, Ze Fork is a popular local bistro that boasts an inventive menu of small plates and a smart selection of local wines including a rotating by-the-glass selection. The eight-metre-high utensil in the water, which has been declared the world’s tallest fork by Guinness Book of World Records, is part of Alimentarium, the food museum located in the former headquarters of Nestlé across from the restaurant. Chef Matthias Ugolini has divided his menu into three parts featuring a satisfying selection of shared plates, beef cuts and dessert options. The dishes change each week as does the sommelier’s mystery selection offered by the glass. Pair a satisfying local chasselas from a producer in La Côte with a malakoff, a deep-fried ball of Swiss cheese. zefork.ch.

Street Cellar, Lausanne

Street Cellar owners Julien Caure and Arthur Stehil de l’Estoile have conjured a wine bar that’s as fun as you want it to be or as serious as you wish. For locals and visitors alike, it offers a one-stop immersion in Swiss wines orchestrated by engaged staff. There are classic wines to enjoy as well as an opportunity to discover what’s new and exciting. An eclectic selection of wines by the glass are served from kegs; the unconventional draught system requires working directly with wineries willing to “bottle” their wines in the large containers. A seat at the bar puts you at the centre of the action, a prime location to drink in knowledge and gather tips on must-visit wineries. Street Cellar is open from lunch well into the evening, with a menu based on street food favourites (gourmet hot dogs are a staple). streetcellar.ch.

Hôtel des Trios Couronnes, Vevey

This 71-room spa resort on the Montreux Riviera was originally developed in 1842 on the foundations of a medieval castle. The Old-World opulence of its architecture and design ranges from the commanding marble doric columns in the lobby to glittering chandeliers that add unexpected lustre to the fitness room. South-facing windows and terraces offer commanding views of Lake Geneva and the Alps, a panoramic view toward mountains that extend in all directions. Over the years, the hotel has welcomed foreign royals and a who’s who of arts and letters, including Henry James, Graham Greene and Charlie Chaplin, a Vevey resident immortalized in a bronze statue of his The Tramp character located on the waterfront behind the hotel. Dining options include Kaiseki by Manabu, offering Japanese contemporary cuisine, and Le 3C with its refined bistro menu. Stays from CHF762/night including breakfast through hoteltroiscouronnes.ch.

Style Advisor travelled to Switzerland as a guest of Switzerland Tourism. The organization did not review or approve this article prior to publication.

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