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Nobu Toronto, the latest instalment in the restaurant empire co-founded by chef Nobu Matsuhisa and Robert De Niro, makes its presence known in the city’s dining scene with both its physical grandeur and its Japanese cuisine subtlety.
Located on the third floor of a sleek new building on Mercer Street, the entrance is discreet, with valet parking and a smartly uniformed doorman hinting at the upscale experience that awaits inside. The initial encounter is warm, with a host stand just beyond the doorway where guests are greeted promptly. An adjoining bar area offers a casual prelude to dinner, though only general seating is available here without reservations.
The real spectacle begins as you ascend a black granite staircase that winds upward through three stories. It’s a dramatic architectural statement, with giant mesh chandeliers cascading through the open space, adding to the atmosphere of sophistication. However, the darkness that envelops this ascent borders on hazardous, with the dim lighting making each step feel precarious — especially for those in stilettos.
The very dark lighting is a puzzling choice that sacrifices safety for theatrics. At the top, a second host stand awaits, and the staff, ever attentive, lead you almost instantly through what they refer to as “the tunnel.” The tunnel is essentially a bar corridor, where three bartenders deftly craft cocktails amid high-top tables of black granite. The ambiance here is moody and stylish, a prelude to the main dining room, which unfolds in a wash of blonde wood and soft lighting. At its center is a circular area adorned with a cherry blossom sculpture that hangs from the ceiling, giving the space a sense of organic elegance.
The open kitchen hums with the energy of 10 to 12 chefs, and the most coveted seating, located in the centre of the restaurant is unmistakable: round leather booths set apart for larger parties or, one assumes, VIPs. The rest of the tables, though attractive, are more modest, with blonde wood surfaces that, while aesthetically pleasing, don’t quite command the same level of exclusivity.
The crowd matches the décor — glamorous, with everyone seemingly dressed for the occasion, as if to participate in the theatre of fine dining. As with all Nobu establishments, there is a palpable sense of being part of something elite.
Our meal began with a bottle of Nobu’s Daiginjo sake, a refined choice at $98 a bottle that signalled the start of a delicious evening.
The first course, Shishito peppers dusted with Tajín and served with lime, was an exercise in subtlety, offering a touch of spice and citrus. From there, the pace quickened with the arrival of yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño and new-style sashimi adorned with spring onions. Both dishes were as precise and pristine as one would expect, the yellowtail delivering a gentle heat while the new-style sashimi offered a delicate counterpoint.
Next, the crispy rice cubes with tuna appeared, each bite a harmonious blend of texture and flavour. The rice was impeccably crunchy, the tuna fresh and spicy — a dish so compelling it warrants an encore, if you can afford it at $50 an order.
Less impressive were the signature sushi tacos. Nobu Toronto opts for whitefish or salmon fillings over the more familiar tuna available at Nobu New York and Malibu. While competent, these versions lack the vibrancy and depth that the tuna variation provides, making them feel more like a concession than an evolution.
The warm mushroom salad, though well-seasoned, arrived in a portion so diminutive it bordered on inconsequential and at almost $40 that seemed to be a dish to avoid.
It’s a dish that, while tasty, fails to justify itself, particularly when set against the more robust offerings that followed. The lobster tempura with honey, however, was nothing short of decadent. Rich and unapologetically indulgent, it is meant for sharing, a dish that commands attention and invites slow, savouring bites. The price on this was $90 so not for the faint of heart.
Nobu’s signature miso cod, a dish that has become emblematic of the brand, was as expected — silky, sweet, and deeply satisfying. But the surprise of the evening was the Chilean sea bass with red jalapeño miso, a creation that is inspired by the signature cod but is unique to the Toronto location. This dish takes the familiar contours of the miso cod and shifts them into more savoury terrain. The sea bass’s natural richness pairs seamlessly with the spicy, umami-rich miso, creating a dish of unexpected depth and complexity. It’s a masterstroke that suggests Nobu Toronto is not merely a satellite of the brand but a restaurant willing to assert its own identity.
The final savoury course adhered to tradition: nigiri and sashimi of impeccable quality. Each piece was a testament to the precision and care that defines Nobu’s sushi, rivalling the best in Toronto and affirming its place within the city’s high-end Japanese cuisine.
Desserts, a concluding note, were familiar: the buttermilk doughnuts, light and ethereal and the soba-cha brownie, a comforting, chocolate-laden finale. Both were well-executed, if not particularly daring, serving as a fitting end to a meal that balances the expected with the exceptional.
Service was polished yet not without its early stumbles. Plates were not changed between courses until prompted, a minor lapse that was quickly corrected when mentioned. Such hiccups, while forgivable in a new establishment, stand out when set against the backdrop of Nobu’s otherwise meticulous attention to detail.
If there are criticisms, they are few but worth noting. The staircase, while visually arresting, is impractically dark — a design choice that borders on negligence. And portion sizes here feel notably smaller than at Nobu’s U.S. counterparts, a fact that becomes more conspicuous given the parity in pricing. Reviews online have been less than stellar and I think this is in part perhaps because many Torontoians may the experiencing sticker shock because they are unfamiliar with the brand.
Nobu is a super premium offering in everything from decor, staffing, quality and creativity. It’s one of the only Worldwide restaurant brands that exists on this level — think Four Seasons Hotel but for Japanese food.
In my travels I have visited all three New York locations including the original. I’ve been to the Las Vegas Nobu. I’ve been to the one in London, England and I’ve been to the Malibu location as well as Matsuhitas Nobu’s original smaller sushi restaurant in Beverly Hills where he first met Robert De Niro and the chain was spawned.
I genuinely believe Torontonians will come to appreciate its quality, even if they’re initially shocked by the prices. The restaurant quickly becomes one of the most expensive in any city it opens. If they improve the lighting and slightly increase portion sizes, this could become one of Toronto’s top dining destinations for years to come.
