From the team behind Simit & Chai and Leslieville’s Turkish brunch destination Pasaj comes an all-new snack and wine bar located in a downtown heritage building. At Barba, Mediterranean small plates meet curated wines in a cozy and quaint dining space.
“When we started ten years ago, our goal was to introduce something from our culture that was missing here,” says John Ulgen, who co-owns the restaurants with his wife Dee. “Istanbul is such a cosmopolitan city with a rich array of experiences, and we wanted to share what we grew up with and showcase the depth of our culture.”
The couple now brings their love for both Istanbul and Toronto to diners at Duncan and Adelaide. They’ve adapted their unique vision to fit this new location, offering a blend of flavours and experiences from both cities.
“With people returning to downtown offices, we wanted to create a space that draws them in. We’re experts in running cafés and bakeries, but a venue like this will truly keep the downtown crowd engaged and excited.
Just as Pasaj signifies a place for gathering, Barba has a special resonance for the owners. The name, derived from the Spanish word for “beard,” refers to a traditional figure in Istanbul who managed a particular type of small, intimate drinking spot.
“They’re still around just like they were 200 or 300 years ago and it’s these gentlemen continuing the tradition of providing excellent conversation,” says Ulgen.
At just 800 square feet and 23 seats, Barba is a small space but elevated with brick walls, brass barter trimmings and white marble tabletops highlighting the high ceilings and airy space.
Much of the flavours and ingredients are the same that the team has been creating for ten years, but done in a combination which would be fitting for a Barba to do in Istanbul. Key share plates are heavily focused on cheeses and pastes, like the cantaloupe and feta — a popular drinking snack — which Barba brines in the nation’s national drink, the raki.
Other items include the borek featuring a honey yogurt with roasted chestnuts, the lentil balls which influenced the menu at Pasaj and the fried mussels in beer batter. The only full meal items currently on the menu are a burger for a more approachable option and a rack of lamb with bulgar and muhammara red pepper sauce.
“You’re supposed to be engaging in conversation rather than engaging in a lot of food and the show of food,” says Ulgen. “It’s about creating a beautiful conversation in a beautiful space, very cozy.”
The share plates will be paired with a rotating selection of cocktails, featuring spirit-forward options as we head into fall and winter. The small wine list includes a few carefully chosen picks, such as Ulgen’s favourites: a white Savatiano Mylonas from Attica, Greece and a red El Pedal Tempranillo from Rioja, Spain.
In mid-September, as the Toronto International Film Festival wraps up, Barba will kick off weekend brunches featuring dishes from Pasaj.
While Barba opens at 5 p.m. from Wednesday through Sunday, Ulgen assures the space closes “when the conversation finishes.”
“We want to encourage staying and conversing,” he says. “The conversations we’re already having with people have been incredible.”
