The warmth and comfort it brings are particularly welcome in the winter. Most of all, what liquid plus heat plus time does to a hunk of protein feels like nothing short of a miracle, no matter how often I’ve seen the transformation.
But the time part is no joke. It takes several hours for short ribs, brisket, or a lamb leg to go from tough to tender.
Of course, when you’re cooking for just yourself, especially on a weeknight, that kind of commitment is out of the question. But there is a way to use the same technique and still get dinner on the table at a reasonable hour: Use chicken thighs. Unlike breasts, they’re fatty enough to yield the desired texture. Still, they break down much faster than the aforementioned cuts of meat and yet leave you with luscious, fall-apart bites. Here, they are cooked alongside shallots, carrots, and chickpeas.
Start by preheating the oven to 350 degrees.
Cut 4 to 5 thin slices of lemon. Heat a 10-inch stainless steel skillet over medium low. Drizzle in 1 tablespoon of extra-virgin olive oil and let that heat for a minute. Place the lemon slices in the oil and cook them for three to four minutes per side, until they are browned in spots.
While the lemon is cooking, season 2 boneless, skinless chicken thighs with ½ teaspoon of kosher salt (feel free to eyeball) and freshly cracked black pepper. (This meal also works with bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs, if you prefer.)
Take the lemon slices out and set them aside. Turn up the burner to medium and drizzle a bit more olive oil into the skillet. Add the chicken thighs, smooth side down. Cook for six to eight minutes, until evenly golden brown. Flip and cook for another four to five minutes so that the underside is no longer raw.
While the chicken is cooking, prepare the rest of your ingredients. Peel 1 large carrot and cut it into eight planks. While you can certainly use smaller carrots from a bunch, a big, loose guy at the grocery store will be very cheap, leave you without leftovers, and is cooked long enough to turn sweet.
Peel a few shallots (you want four to five individual small bulbs, or a couple of larger ones cut in half). Smash and peel 4 garlic cloves. Measure out 5 ounces of drained and rinsed chickpeas from a can. (The remaining beans can be dried and stored in an airtight container in the fridge.)
When the chicken thighs are done cooking, set them aside. Drizzle more olive oil in the skillet if it’s looking dry, then add in the carrots and shallots. Season those with salt. Turn them occasionally, until they brown on most sides, seven to 10 minutes. Add the garlic and the chickpeas, give everything a stir, and cook for a few minutes more. Then kill the heat.
Nestle the chicken thighs back in the skillet, along with any juices that have accumulated on the plate. Add a few sprigs of fresh oregano (or feel free to substitute thyme, rosemary, or any other hearty herb you like). Pour in ½ cup of water and 1 tablespoon of apple cider vinegar. Cover the skillet with a lid and transfer to the oven.
Cook for 30 minutes. Remove the lid and cook for another 20 to 30 minutes, until most of the liquid has evaporated (though it’s nice to have a bit left at the bottom). You can eat as is, but the dish pairs well with olive oil-fried toast, rice, or (my favorite) buttered egg noodles.
At 90 minutes or so, this recipe takes longer than a quick-fix dinner. But the succulent result is well worth the (relatively long, relatively short, depending on how you look at it) wait.
Emma Wartzman is the kitchen and dining writer at New York Magazine’s the Strategist.
Additional photo illustration credits: bowl photo by Emma Wartzman
