Still, there are ways to make it even better, and this version is one that I developed when I wanted to add a vegetable to make the dish more well-rounded — but still had nothing in the fridge. It includes canned artichoke hearts, also known as the only vegetable I will eat from a can. In fact, I keep them stocked in my cabinet at all times alongside beans, tomatoes, fish, olives, capers, rice, pasta, panko, grains…you get the idea. They’re an oft-overlooked pantry staple whose slight tang goes exceptionally well with tuna. Oh, and the aforementioned capers and panko? They make an appearance here, too.
Start by draining an 8.5-ounce can of artichoke hearts. These come whole and quartered; either works fine. (But please, don’t buy a fancy marinated variety. For this recipe, you want your hearts straight-up.) If they’re whole, cut them into quarters. I like to lay out the pieces on a dish towel or paper towel to help absorb some of the moisture because they still retain a lot even after you’ve drained them.
As those sit, bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil. Drain a 5-ounce can of tuna in olive oil and set aside. For me, tuna in water is no-go; the fish doesn’t have nearly as nice of a texture as filets packed in oil. (If you use a larger jar, weigh the amount you need.)
Next, make the pasta topping. Roughly chop 2 teaspoons of capers. You don’t need to worry about them ending up in even pieces, but try to aim for smaller bits. Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a 10-inch stainless steel skillet. I prefer to use fresh olive oil rather than the remnants from the can of tuna, which isn’t always high-quality and may have too strong of a fishy smell. Add the chopped capers and ¼ cup of panko breadcrumbs, stirring so everything gets coated in oil as evenly as possible. Let the mixture sizzle, stirring frequently so that it gets as evenly golden brown as possible, about 5 minutes. Turn off the heat, add a pinch of flaky salt, stir again, and then set aside. I think of this like a salty Parmesan substitute, which also adds some crunch.
Now comes a small amount of optional prep work. I like to add 2 tablespoons of chopped chives and 2 tablespoons of chopped parsley. I think these herbs offer a welcome freshness, but you can leave them out altogether if you want a true pantry pasta, or just use one or the other. Another great substitution would be a soft herb like dill or basil.
Make sure that the stainless steel skillet you used for the topping is wiped clean (no straggling breadcrumbs left to burn) and set it over medium heat. Pour in 1½ tablespoons olive oil, let it get hot, and then dump in the artichokes. Season them with a pinch of kosher salt, some freshly cracked black pepper, and (again, optional) a pinch of chili flakes. Let that cook for about 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. If the pan gets too dry at any point, add more oil. The artichoke pieces will stay mostly soft, but they’ll get some brown frizzled edges and shrink down, losing their moisture and concentrating their earthy flavor.
Meanwhile, pour 4 ounces of pasta into the boiling water. You can go with any shape you like, though I prefer short and stout (as opposed to long and thin) for optimal chunky bites. I try to time this so that the pasta — which you’ll cook until just shy of al dente — is ready when the artichokes are done. But don’t overthink it; there’s wiggle room on both sides. If your pasta is done first, let it sit once drained. If your artichokes are done first, turn the heat down a smidge so they don’t burn.
When the pasta is done, reserve a bit of pasta water (a cup should be more than enough) and drain.
Pour the pasta and a splash of pasta water into the skillet, tossing as you go, so that the bottom of the pan deglazes, and you start to get a saucy, glossy sheen over everything. Add a splash or two more pasta water if necessary.
During the final few tosses, as everything is coming together, add the tuna, all the herbs, and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Plate, top with the breadcrumb mixture — and be thrilled that your fridge was bare.
