Big and bold red wines are commonly found in hotspots such as California as opposed to Canada’s cool-climate vineyards, but there are pleasing homegrown substitutes if you know where to look.
Canadian winemakers don’t always have the hot and dry conditions suitable for ripe California-style cabernets, but experience has taught them how to craft ripe and expressive reds from year to year. While pinot noir, gamay and cabernet franc are more consistent from vintage to vintage, merlot, cabernet sauvignon and syrah can produce rich and compelling wines given a substitute vineyard location and enough sun.
Popular California labels, such as Josh, J. Lohr and Tom Gore, have won over wine lovers with cabernets that suggest a range of ripe black cherry, blackberry and plum flavours enhanced by vanilla, smoke and spicy notes from oak aging. These wines celebrate concentration over complexity. The offer mouth-filling texture and dramatic length as part of their sunny and flavourful style.
They also attract attention for delivering crowd-pleasing character for an affordable price – in the $20 to $25 range in many markets.
For anyone looking to replace their favourite international labels, here are a selection of reds from Niagara and the Okanagan that deliver compelling full-bodied and fruity characters. I looked through my tasting notes of locally made red wines and passed over any samples that suggested cedar, savoury or earthy flavour profiles.
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Those attributes, which contribute fragrance and character to what’s in the glass, aren’t common to the commercial style found in mass-market brands. If they strike a chord with you, there’s an even wider range of red wines made here to be discovered.
Bartier Bros. Merlot 2022 (Canada), $25.99
Merlot grapes from the Cerqueira Vineyard in Oliver are used to create this juicy and complex red wine. A core of blueberry and raspberry contributes to the silky texture, while crushed stones and sage notes add depth and interest. This is made in a medium-bodied and approachable style, with a bright and enjoyable character. It has 13.5 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price direct, bartierbros.com, various prices in British Columbia.
Bella Terra Cabernet Merlot 2023 (Canada), $15.95
Bella Terra is owned by the Puglisi family, which came to Niagara-on-the-Lake in the 1970s and established a 50-acre vineyard. The winery, originally known as Pondview, was introduced in 2008 and has developed a large portfolio of red, white and sparkling wines. A blend of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc and merlot, this offers appealing fruit and spice notes. It has 13 per cent ABV and two grams/litre residual sweetness. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario ($14.15 until Feb. 15).
Black Sage Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Canada), $32.99
Known for its ripe and inviting house style, Black Sage is a brand produced by Arterra in the Okanagan alongside its winery brands such as Culmina, Jackson-Triggs and See Ya Later. The current release of this cabernet sauvignon offers a round and easy-to-appreciate character, with flattering dark fruit and sweet oak notes. It’s balanced, flavourful and ready to drink. It has 14 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in British Columbia ($28.99 until March 1), various prices in Alberta, $35.99 in Nova Scotia.
Family Tree The Padré Cabernet/Merlot 2022 (Canada), $15.95
Family Tree is one of the labels produced by Henry of Pelham winery in west St. Catharines, Ont. The Padré is a rich and smooth blend of cabernet franc, cabernet sauvignon and merlot from Niagara, aged in a mix of new and older French and American oak barrels. The result is a robust red wine that delivers a mix of red and dark fruit flavours with smoke and oak spice notes. The sweeter character adds to the plump, crowd-pleasing character. It has 13 per cent ABV and eight grams/litre residual sweetness. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, direct, henryofpelham.com, $18.99 in Manitoba ($16.99 until Feb. 28), $25.98 in Nova Scotia, $22.29 in Newfoundland.
Road 13 Honest John’s Bold Red Wine 2021 (Canada), $23.99
Part of Anthony von Mandl’s significant collection of Okanagan wineries, Road 13 focuses production on ripe and engaging wines from vineyards on the Golden Mile Bench and other parts of the region. The Honest John’s label is used for larger production releases, including this fruity and full-bodied blend of cabernet and merlot with gamay and pinot noir. The far-ranging mix of grape varieties and contributes to a complex array of dark fruit, herbal spice and sweet oak derived notes. It has 13.9 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2027. Available in British Columbia.
Strewn Rogue’s Lot Cabernet Sauvignon Cabernet Franc 2019 (Canada), $14.95
Rogue’s Lot is made in a soft and juicy style for mass appeal. It’s not going to impress with richness or concentration but offers a mix of ripe and bright red fruit and spice flavours. It has 12.8 per cent ABV and six grams/litre residual sweetness. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario ($13.25 until Feb. 15) or direct, strewnwinery.com.
Nk’Mip Talon 2021 (Canada), $29.99
Since opening in 2002, Nk’Mip continues to produce a dynamic portfolio of wine from the Okanagan. Talon is the winery’s red blend. In 2021, it combines syrah, malbec, cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir from vineyards in Osoyoos to offer a compelling wine that makes the most of its core of fleshy berry and plum fruit flavours. The full-bodied and layered style is enjoyable on its own or with a meal. Drink now to 2026. It has 14.8 per cent ABV and 5.9 grams/litre residual sweetness. Available at the above price in British Columbia ($27.99 until March 10), $32.99 direct, greatestatesokanagan.com.
River Stone Estate Winery Merlot 2020 (Canada), $30.90
This charming merlot is produced with grapes grown around River Stone winery in Oliver, B.C. Dark fruit flavours (black cherry, blackberry) provide a sweet start that is rounded out by oak-derived vanilla and spice notes. This is nicely balanced with structure and character, a well-made red to savour now or later. It has 14.2 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2030. Available direct, riverstoneestatewinery.ca.
