Huaraz is known as the hiking capital of Peru.Josh Laskin/The Globe and Mail
It’s difficult to comprehend what it means to be alone until you are truly alone. I felt it after the bus pulled away from Puente Ulta, or Ulta Bridge, in Huascarán National Park, eight hours north of Lima, in the heart of the Peruvian Andes.
All of the “off the beaten path” and “escape the crowds” articles I’ve written culminated in that moment. It made even the “overlooked” North American national parks I had visited over the past decade look busy.
I gazed into the seemingly trailless valley ahead, imagining the beauty it would reveal as it pulled me deeper into the park. There weren’t any cars, people or buildings in sight, despite being just 60 kilometres from the city of Huaraz.
I felt the cool, moist air on my skin as I admired the Andean peaks looming ahead, their upper reaches shrouded in dark clouds. Glaciers spilled from the hidden slopes like slow-moving magma oozing down the flanks of a volcano. I took one last glance at my map and started walking, leaving the desolate road – my only lifeline to civilization – behind.
I was recovering from a 22-hour bus ride that had started in Cusco. On the outgoing connection from Lima, I met a Californian named Jim Bartle who moved to Huaraz in 1977 after visiting for a hiking trip. He stayed, writing the area’s first hiking guidebook, guiding trekkers and doing conservation work. Immediately, I got the sense that Huaraz attracts a different type of traveller.
“[Huaraz] is the best place in the world that has a combination of high alpine scenery, big glaciated mountains, and access,” Bartle said. “Within a couple of hours driving and half a day of hiking, you’re in the heart of the range.”
Two climbers trekking through the Ishinca Valley, before attempting to climb one of the region’s smaller summits.Josh Laskin/The Globe and Mail
Before heading to Peru, I had heard murmurs about Huaraz and the surrounding Cordillera Blanca, or White Range, in the rock climbing community back home in New Hampshire. It’s where some of the world’s best climbers, alpinists and mountaineers go to push boundaries, nabbing first ascents and repeating challenging routes on glacier-capped peaks in the world’s tallest tropical mountain range. But I hadn’t heard much about the actual city or the more accessible climbs, treks and activities around.
Huaraz is known as “the hiking capital of Peru,” and its downtown is full of restaurants, cafés, bars and outdoor gear shops surrounding small parks and squares. Quechua women, clad in colourful traditional dresses and brimmed hats, peddle wool beanies and knick-knacks on the sidewalk. On clear days, several 6,000-metre peaks can be seen towering above the city, accenting the skyline.
The city, perched at an elevation of 3,052 metres, is the jumping-off point to the 840,000-acre Huascarán National Park and surrounding ranges. The park is relatively accessible and home to 27 snow-capped peaks (including the country’s tallest, Huascarán). It’s considered the tallest tropical mountain range in the world but the park doesn’t get many visitors – they recorded just 222,107 in 2021, a drop in the bucket compared to many North American national parks.
My sights were set on exploring the more accessible treks and hikes near the city. I spent my first day acclimating and getting the lay of the land, immediately noticing the extra work my lungs had to put in just to walk up a slight incline.
My new friend Jim pointed out valleys and alpine lakes he thought would make good day trips and overnight treks, and noted some have changed over time with glacial melting.
A backpacker purchases a snack in the small town of Catac, just south of Huaraz. Street vendors selling traditional Peruvian dishes, like anticuchos (marinated and grilled meat typically made with cow hearts), are common in the towns and cities throughout Peru.Josh Laskin/The Globe and Mail
In town, I’d seen signs for day trips to the Pastoruri Glacier. But I found out that the glacier – at an elevation of 5,250 metres and accessible by car – is a popular tourist destination that is rapidly disappearing. In fact, it’s no longer technically a glacier since it loses more mass than it gains each year.
“Everybody used to go and walk on the glacier, but they don’t let people on it anymore,” Bartle said.
He ran his finger along one valley that led to a small town called Yanama, explaining that to get there, I’d have to take a bus and ask the driver to drop me at Puente Ulta – a daunting task for someone who speaks broken Spanish at best.
On the first day of my three-day solo trek from Puente Ulta to Yanama, subtle signs of a trail occasionally appeared, often as nothing more than a faint line of flattened grass. I frequently checked the contour lines on my map, comparing them to what I saw around me to confirm I was heading into the right valley.
The solitude was unlike anything I had experienced – I wouldn’t encounter another human until the third and final day. Eventually, I reached a flat perch overlooking an alpine lake tucked between the still-concealed peaks. A steady snow had begun to fall, so it only made sense to call it quits for the day and set up camp.
That night, I listened to cascading snow and ice as the melting glaciers above shed layers. At 2 a.m., I stepped out of my tent and found an entirely different scene. The clouds had dissipated, revealing a star-filled sky. For the first time, I saw the jagged peaks reaching upward, the moonlight reflecting off their snowy slopes. I sat and stared in awe, feeling as if I had discovered one of South America’s secrets.
Camping in the Quilcayhuanca Valley, one of the many valleys that can be explored around Huaraz.Josh Laskin/The Globe and Mail
If you go
Earlier this year, LATAM Airlines began direct daily flights from Lima to Huaraz, eliminating the need for an eight-hour bus ride.
The elevation gain between Lima and Huaraz can be challenging, so spending a day or two exploring the city is necessary for acclimatizing.
Manka and Café Andino are worth a stop before or after a rugged day of hiking. Sierra Andina is the local brewery and their Huaracina pale ale is a great after-hike option. Trivio, a restaurant centrally located in town and owned by Sierra Andina’s owner, is where you’ll want to unwind and sample a few of the brewery’s beers after a day in the mountains.
There are plenty of lodging options. The Monkey Wasi hostel is a budget-friendly option, perfect for meeting other travellers, but you won’t find much privacy. The Andino Club Hotel is the nicest in town (rates start at $133 a night) and has a selection of rooms with mountain views. Hotel Churup is more budget-friendly, although everything in the city is relatively cheap.
Andean Kingdom, a gear shop, offers guided treks and gear rentals. Staff are a great help with logistics, planning and advice. Even the easiest hikes will be difficult owing to the elevation.
The hike to Laguna 69 – a glacial lake that sits in the shadows of snow-capped peaks – is a popular day hike. While it is worth checking out, there are other less-visited options, like Laguna Churup. For longer treks, consider the 180-kilometre Huayhuash Circuit or the 50-kilometre Santa Cruz trek.
Laguna Rocotuyoc is another short hike to a lake perched beneath staggering glaciers, where small icebergs drift along the surface. The east side of the Cordillera Blanca – about two hours by car or bus – is even quieter than the west side (which is hard to believe) and there are ancient ruins visitors can tour at Chavín de Huántar.
