Finding hope in devastation, these Calgary brewers crafted a beer from the flowers that sprout after wildfires | Canada Voices

Wildfire flames that jump from tree to tree and snake along the forest floor leave behind a seemingly desolate land covered in ash and charred stumps. But it doesn’t take long after the fire has passed for one of the first signs of life to emerge: a bright pink flower that sprouts and spreads quickly across the landscape.

The plant is called fireweed and, as its name suggests, it is capable of thriving among the ruins of a wildfire as part of the first line of forest regeneration. It’s always been there, hiding beneath the surface, but only after a significant disruption to the ecosystem can it grow into a sturdy and tall plant that yields honey, and is fed on by bears and pollinators as the canopy rebuilds.

Calgarian Ryan Mortson, who co-founded Best of Kin brewery with his brother Collin, stumbled upon fireweed honey last summer as they were exploring ways to help those most affected by wildfires that were torching Western Canada – most recently Jasper residents who fled from flames that destroyed one-third of the town in July.

Mr. Mortson said the wildflower is a symbol of hope in the face of devastation, mirroring the lives of evacuees who must rebuild after losing their homes and businesses in raging blazes.

Luckily, the honey also blends well in beer.

So, Best of Kin crafted a special edition lager called Fire Bloom using fireweed honey produced in neighbouring British Columbia. A portion of the proceeds go toward the Jasper Fire Caring Community Fund for long-term recovery, as well as to the University of Alberta’s Project Forest, where an experimental research forest has been grown to study climate change.

Canada has experienced back-to-back fire seasons that are among the worst in recent history. Destructive wildfires ripped through more than 17 million hectares in 2023, equal to one-quarter of the land in Alberta. More than five million hectares have been scorched this season, with fires still burning.

“Rather than focusing on the doom and gloom, we thought it was a little more appropriate to focus on the symbology of rebirth,” said Mr. Mortson. He added that the project is in its infancy and that Best of Kin wants to build on its momentum to donate to other causes, such as Firefighters Without Borders.

Fire Bloom is the beer brewers really “don’t want to brew,” said Mr. Mortson, as fireweed becomes more abundant in Canada only because of more frequent and intense wildfires. But using it to ignite conversation about ecological stewardship and to raise money “spins it in a positive way.”

Simon Landhäusser, a professor in the department of renewable resources at the University of Alberta, said fireweed is a perennial plant that can have large underground root systems. He said the plant survives in the understory of forests and produce only a few small shoots each year to maintain itself.

But, after a significant disturbance such as a wildfire scalping the area, fireweed is able to “vigorously resprout” because of increased sunlight and nutrients left behind in the soil. “It is only at those points, when fireweed flowers, that most people notice it,” said Prof. Landhäusser. “Although, it was always there.”

Edwin Nowek, a lifelong beekeeper, said it takes from two to three years until honey production from fireweed is possible, but it can be hit and miss because the weather conditions need to be just right. Then there’s the issue of bears who are drawn to the sweet scent, some even swallowing full honeycombs.

“I’m sure the bees are stinging all the way down into their stomachs, but they love it so much that they just keep coming back for more and more,” said Mr. Nowek, who owns Planet Bee in B.C.’s Okanagan Valley, the honey farm that supplies Best of Kin.

He said beekeepers scout areas damaged by wildfires, typically at higher altitudes, and then place hives nearby with busy bees that gather nectar that’s deposited into the honeycombs. While there is potential to yield honey for up to six weeks, Mr. Nowek said producers are usually lucky to get two to three weeks of output. Fireweed honey is unique in that it has a delicate sweetness with a hint of spice.

Planet Bee calls it the “champagne of honeys.” And now, it has found a place in the world of craft beer.