It took less than a year in business for Holi Taco to become known for serving up some of the best tacos in Toronto.
Given that it replaced what was the original Burger’s Priest, the cozy take-out taqueria had some big shoes to fill, but owner chef Luis Valenzuela and his team found a way to make it happen.
When he first came from Mexico in the early 2000s, he went to George Brown College and began, like most chefs, working under the tutelage of Mark McEwan at North 44 and other establishments.
“When I first came to Canada, there was little diversity, and the industry was predominantly white and male,” he says, explaining that he tried to fit in by taking European cuisine courses. “As a young immigrant, I quickly realized that I wanted to assimilate and be part of Canada — and Toronto, specifically — so I felt ashamed of my background.”
After being a partner at the now-closed Carmen Cocina Espanola, he eventually found his way back to his roots — much to the delight of Toronto’s taco lovers. During the pandemic, he reached a full-circle moment by teaching at George Brown College, a role he continues today, noting that he has “found his true calling mentoring younger cooks.” He also became the head chef at Mad Mexican, an experience that allowed him to rediscover his passion for the food of his native Mexico.
“Mad Mexican ignited that love for the Mexican cuisine that was correlating within me,” he says. “I became prouder of my roots and where I was from.”
When he came up with the idea for Holi Taco, he admits he didn’t expect it to become an immediate hit, as he recognized that the taqueria style common in the State of Mexico — where customers can watch their tacos being made right in front of them — was not yet a familiar concept in Toronto.
“I thought it might take a while for people to appreciate and see that it’s a quick meal that is inexpensive but also delicious.”
Holi Taco, located just outside the Beaches, features a salsa bar where customers can load up on housemade salsas, including salsa roja, habanera and the peanutty Morita salsa, which is made by Valenzuela’s mother back in Mexico.
“I want people to be responsible for their own happiness, not me,” he says. “You’re truly happy with what you’re eating because it’s your choice, and ultimately, you’re the one deciding how much you get.”
Inside the small space, customers are served by a team made up of his former George Brown College culinary students, creating a relationship with his staff that feels more like that of a student-mentor than employer and employee.
As for the menu, the Pastor brisket taco is the most popular, gaining fame as one of the most traditional, alongside slow-cooked beef brisket and a fish taco. While the space is small, Valenzuela says it was important to him to offer three vegetarian options, including a cactus paddle — cooked raw rather than grilled — and a hibiscus flower taco with cauliflower and Brussels sprouts.
Despite the popularity of his tacos, Valenzuela also offers churros, hibiscus flower juice with ginger and has recently added avocado fries to the menu — something he’s been perfecting for over a decade.
“The recipes are really well done, and I think altogether has been what has made us successful,” he says. “People are happy because the exchange that we have is you come here hungry, we feed you really quickly.”
Holi Taco is located at 1636 Queen St E., and is open daily from 12 to 10 p.m.
