Trevor Gulliver opened St. John Smithfield with chef Fergus Henderson in October, 1994.SAM A HARRIS/Supplied
The influential London restaurant St. John, which saw its nose-to-tail cooking philosophy become a global culinary revolution, owes its enduring success to common sense: “We’ve just done what we thought was the right thing to do at the time,” explains Trevor Gulliver, who opened St. John Smithfield with chef Fergus Henderson in October, 1994.
Henderson’s kitchen made a virtue of offcuts and unpopular parts of the pig and other beasts for its ever-changing daily menu, while Gulliver’s wine list focused exclusively on French bottles: “Wines that we liked to drink,” Gulliver says matter-of-factly.
Food and drink continue to be the focus of the operation, while relaxed dining rooms with whitewashed walls, illuminated by industrial lights, play the backdrop. A basket of freshly baked bread commands the centre of the table in lieu of flowers. There’s no background music either. “It’s important to let people hear their own noise – their conversations and the clinking of cutlery – and the bustle of the kitchen staff rather than the thump of music,” Gulliver says.
A self-described “leap of faith,” St. John wasn’t an immediate success. But the partners steadfastly built a following and the business evolved to add two more locations, associated bakeries, and a winery in La Livinière in the south of France. “We’ve made a lot of friends along the way,” he says.
A number of those friends are in the French wine business.
After building a following and adding two new locations, St. John took on a winery in La Livinière in the south of France.SAM A HARRIS/Supplied
Most of the wines poured are bottled under the St. John label or made by Boulevard Napoléon, the group’s winery established in 2010. Private label wine started in 1996 to make a good quality, affordable red Bordeaux in partnership with Maison Sichel. The success of that wine, labelled simply as Claret, inspired more collaborations with small producers in less prestigious regions across France. “I know every winemaker personally,” Gulliver says. “Some people are happy with putting their name on the bottle, we make the wine.”
A popular St. John’s selection, a red blend of Syrah, grenache and cabernet made in collaboration with Languedoc-based organic producer, Château de Lascaux, comes in conventional 750 ml bottles as well as three- and 10-litre bag-in-box formats. It’s a source of pride for Gulliver that St. John was first Michelin star restaurant with bag-in-box wines on its list.
Gulliver, who visited Toronto last week to host two St. John pop-up dinners at Oliver Bonacini’s The Dorset, says the wine side of the business soared during the pandemic, as an online sales channel opened to support the business during lockdowns. They also supplied wine to local butcher shops to sell with their provisions to boost revenues.
Perhaps the biggest endorsement of the wines produced by Gulliver and team is that restaurants and pubs outside of the St. John orbit sell them. The labels advertise the name of the popular restaurant, but that’s seen as inspiring confidence for consumers about the quality of the wine.
A selection of St. John and Boulevard Napoleon wines are available through consignment from Cru Wine Merchants in Ontario. Two of my favourites are included amongst this week’s recommendations.
Alvaro Palacios Les Terrasses Laderas de Pizzara 2021 (Spain), $58.95
For the 2021 vintage, Les Terrasses is blend of 70 per cent garnacha (grenache) and 30 per cent cariñena (carignan) from steep hillside plantings in Priorat. The style shows the vibrant and complex character of wines from this exceptional region near Barcelona. Expect layers of flavour (plum, cranberry, cedar) part of a refined, fuller bodied red with youthful tannins and a serious texture. Decant for best enjoyment. Drink now to 2030. Available in Ontario.
Anselmi San Vincenzo 2023 (Italy), $18.95
San Vincenzo continues to chart its own path, operating outside of the conventional Soave winemaking appellation in Veneto. The current vintage includes a mixture of local grape varieties, such as chardonnay, garganega, and sauvignon blanc, which contribute to the ripe and fruity character. Refreshing and harmonious, this is expressive and enjoyable with a compelling mix of citrus and tropical fruit flavours rounded out by herbal and floral notes. Vegan. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $18.25 in Quebec.
Boulevard Napoléon Grenache Noir 2022 (France), $39.95
This stylish grenache comes from a parcel of 70-year-old bush vines in the estate owned Le Puyol vineyard. While previous vintages of this label have been rich and robust, this is lighter and more graceful by comparison. It’s a style that’s enjoyable with or without a meal, with juicy berry and cherry fruit flavours enhanced by floral and herbal accents. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price, sold as a case of six bottles, direct cruwinemerchants.com, various prices in Alberta.
Oreno 2021 (Italy), $99.95
An impressive blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and petit verdot, Oreno is the flagship release from Tenuta Sette Ponti’s organic estate near the town of Arezzo in Tuscany. First produced in 1999, Oreno is made in a rich and concentrated style, with ripe, velvety tannins contributing to its polished structure. Drink now to 2035. Available at the above price in Ontario, $115.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $90.50 in Quebec, $147.79 in New Brunswick.
Penfolds Koonunga Hill Chardonnay 2023 (Australia), $16.95
Penfolds entry level chardonnay is made in a rich and refreshing style. The flavourful white wine offers a mix of yellow apple, spicy and honeyed notes with a citrusy acidity to balance. A creamy texture adds to the mass appeal. Drink now. Available at the above prices in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $19.99 in Saskatchewan, $23.99 in Nova Scotia, $21.90 in Newfoundland.
St. John Claret 2020 (France), $29.95
A blend of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, cabernet franc and malbec from different vineyards controlled by Sichel estates in Bordeaux, this is made in a crowd-pleasing style. Freshness and concentration add to a ripe and balanced character that is approachable but still offers classic structure and polish expected from the region. Vegan. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price, sold as a case of 12 bottles, direct cruwinemerchants.com, various prices in Alberta.
