More than a T-shirt, the marinière top (also referred to as a Breton top) has a long and practical history.
“The first marinière, a knitted cotton jersey ‘tricot rayé,’ was incorporated into French naval uniforms in 1858,” said fashion historian and author Rebecca C. Tuite. This garment featured a boat neckline and a very specific configuration of stripes on the body and sleeves. “Many significant features of the marinière were rooted in practicality and necessity of seafaring life: The broad ‘boat’ neckline made it much easier and quicker to put on and take off, while the bold stripes increased visibility of the sailor should he fall overboard,” said Tuite.
Today, these striped tops have become popular around the world, for reasons of style rather than function. “They are definitely tied to evocations of effortless chic on the French Riviera, thanks to Gabrielle Chanel’s popularization of the marinière at her shop in Deauville, as well as later French style icons like Brigitte Bardot,” said Tuite.
A summertime staple, the marinière has become a key part of many preppy wardrobes today. “[It] is rooted in practicality, movement and has these ties to sailing and coastal leisure – so much of that is at the heart of what we think of as traditional preppy style,” said Tuite.
The marinière’s enduring appeal is clear to the co-founders behind new Montreal-based fashion label Rholend, Laurence Fortin-Côté and Dylan Wu. Their debut collection prominently features the striped top in two colours. “The foundation of our brand is really those timeless staple classics that you can rewear over and over again and that are really high quality to last for a lifetime,” said Fortin-Côté.
When you’re shopping for a marinière, Fortin-Côté suggests reviewing the fabrication (100-per-cent cotton will be “more breathable, more comfortable to wear every day”) and looking for a relaxed fit for a more effortless look. And ideally – especially for pricier styles – the stripes on the body and the ones on the sleeve should line up seamlessly. “That’s a big indicator of quality and care,” said Fortin-Côté.
Six buys to try
Full of stripes and style, starting at $50
Rholend La Marinière top
Currently available in two colourways, this unisex style by Montreal-based Rholend is made in Portugal using an organic 100-per-cent cotton knit.
Buying options
$260, buy at Rholend
Saint James Levant Moderne T-shirt
This unisex boatneck marinière is made with 100-per-cent cotton in Saint-James, France. The brand has been making knits for Breton fishermen since 1889.
Buying options
$129, buy at Altitude Sports
Kit and Ace Stanton T-shirt
Want the striped look but not sure if you can pull off a boatneck? This men’s T-shirt is made with a preshrunk cotton-spandex blend fabric that is designed to be moisture-wicking, breathable and with a soft hand feel.
Buying options
$65, buy at Kit + Ace
Muji striped T-shirt
Better for cooler days and transitional weather because it’s made with a heavyweight thicker knit, Muji’s cotton T-shirt for women features a boatneck and full-length sleeves.
Buying options
$50, buy at Muji
J.Crew women’s new mariner top
This sleeveless “muscle” T-shirt is ideal for hot summer days. It’s made of 100-per-cent cotton and boasts a boxy silhouette and a front patch pocket.
Buying options
$88, buy at J. Crew
Sézane Colette marinière T-shirt
Available in sizes XXS to XXXL for women, Sézane’s organic cotton T-shirt can be personalized with embroidered text and symbols.
Buying options
$145, buy at Sezane