What began as a pasta shop in a Little Italy basement has blossomed into a certified Toronto favourite, and 15 years later, they’re still doing what they do best.
Ask any self-respecting pasta afficionado in Toronto where to find the best in the city, and there’s a likely chance they’ll respond, emphatically, Famiglia Baldassarre.
A far cry from fellow high-falutin front runners like Cafe Renee or Ascari Enoteca, Famiglia Baldassarre, so-named after founder Leandro Baldassarre, occupies a humble 10-seat space on Geary Avenue, only offering a no-reservation lunch service from 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. Wednesday to Friday.
It seems as though the humility aspect has always been baked into the concept, though, considering the business was born out of a basement unit in a building owned by Leandro’s former boss, David Lee (Nota Bene, Planta).
Leandro crafts fresh pasta at his Geary Avenue workshop. Photo by Fareen Karim.
Upon returning to Toronto from a three-year stint living in working in Italy back in 2010, Leandro tells me, Lee, under whom Leandro had worked at Nota Bene, offered up the unit as a space for Leandro to make pasta.
“[David Lee is] like, ‘You want to make me some pasta? You could use this space?’ I said, ‘Sure,'” Leandro tells me, “so I bought a little table and a little wooden board and whatnot. I got a fridge, and I just tried out making pasta for it, and Nota Bene.”
He continued to make pasta for Lee’s restaurant a couple days a week, and, in what Leandro describes as a “slow snowball effect,” weeks turned into months, and months into years, and, slowly but surely, word started getting out about Famiglia Baldassarre.
“And then eventually it turned into, you know, a pretty decent little business,” Leandro tells me. “I could, at least, barely support myself. It was good enough. And that’s how it really started.”
About five years in, Leandro renovated the basement unit, branded his business and started his Instagram account. Six years in, he rented out the unit Famiglia Baldassarre currently calls home on Geary Avenue. Thus began the metamorphosis into the Baldassarre we know today.
The cozy Geary Avenue shop is Famiglia Baldassarre’s current home. Photo by Fareen Karim.
Upon opening their doors, the business was still operating exclusively in a wholesale capacity, but the new location, positioned, for the first time, on street level, poised an entirely new direction for Famiglia Baldassarre.
“There was an opportunity to open the doors to the public,” Leandro says. “Before, when I was in a basement, there was no choice. But since I was I had a front door I was like, ‘wow, what if if we open the front door here and open the store up, or turn it into a little store where you just go buy pasta too?'”
That’s exactly what he did, launching a sort of members-only club for their lunch service, geared towards the other people who worked in the building.
Pretty quickly, though, this exclusive, members-only club ballooned to around 200 members, and it was time to, as Leandro says, “go legitimate,” obtaining their restaurant license and opening, in a limited capacity, to the general public.
Famiglia Baldassarre received a Michelin recommendation in 2024. Photo by Fareen Karim.
Suffice it to say, as a member of the aforementioned general public, I’m certainly glad he did. The critical masses agree, too, as Famiglia Baldassarre earned a highly-coveted Michelin recommendation in 2024, after years of the pasta shop’s devoted fans bemoaning the organization for overlooking Baldassarre.
Reflecting back on the past 15 years, not to mention the dazzling degree of respect and adoration he’s earned during that time, Leandro tells me that it can be hard to sit back and smell the roses, as it were.
“You’re really kind of, you’re up to your eyeballs in work, in daily stress, and just running a business,” he adds, “but when there are moments you can step back, […] there are little moments of recognition that make you actually realize you and your team kind of are doing something great and special, I mean, that was always the intention.”
Lunch service at Famiglia Baldassarre is a hot ticket for pasta lovers in the city. Photo by Hector Vasquez.
Baldassarre, and Leandro’s kitchen career at large, has never been a casual thing for him, he tells me.
Working in fine dining for his whole career, he’s always been motivated by creating the best possible product, experience, and team, ensuring that every last detail is perfect, so it’s really no wonder why Famiglia Baldassarre has always gained the fanfare that it has, but, Leandro tells me, it’s still nice to have it recognized.
“It’s nice to see that recognized in little ways, but honestly, it’s the public support that has been the best,” he says. “It’s been so good.”
While running the business is, admittedly, “hard work all the time,” the appreciation he sees from the community; from folks lining up at pop-ups to an old Italian man saying that Leandro’s pasta reminds him of how his wife used to make it, makes it beyond worth it.
Famiglia Baldassarre’s pasta production will always be a small-scale operation, Leandro says. Photo by Fareen Karim.
“Those are the moments where you’re like, ‘Okay, I’m never quitting forever, you know?'”
15 years in, and Leandro tells me that the hopes he has for the future, both of Famiglia Baldassarre and his own career independent of it, are limitless.
“It’s impossible to say that Baldassarre will exist in that location forever, because it is Toronto,” he tells me, but, “I think it’s going to be a forever thing in one way, shape or form, but in probably something a little more concrete that people can sink their teeth into.”
He also plans to get Famiglia Baldassarre pasta in more stores, so that people can eat it at home, but, he assures, it’ll never be a mass-production type of operation.
“It’ll never be a large scale. It’s always handmade,” Leandro says, “It’s always a lot of work behind it, so it’ll always be a small scale.”
Famiglia Baldassarre. Photo by Fareen Karim.
Famiglia Baldassarre is located at 122 Geary Avenue.
