When you find a wool sweater you like, start by looking closely at the fibre content on the tag. A 100-per-cent wool garment, although likely pricier, will perform and last differently than a blend.
“You’re better to try and find something that is closer to a higher percentage of wool or other specialty hair fibre,” says Philip Sparks, a professor at Seneca Polytechnic and bespoke tailor. “There’s a lot of acrylic and nylon that’s included in things which can end up leaving you with a sweater that pills a lot.” Additionally, you’ll want to consider that some hairs such as mohair can be more challenging to care for and launder.
Then, if possible, you’ll want to feel the sweater. “In wool, there’s a huge different range of qualities of wool and breeds of sheep that produce things for different purposes,” says Sparks. “How does it feel against you? Are you going to be comfortable wearing it?” For example, wool from merino sheep is typically softer and finer, which would feel nice against your skin. At the same time, coarser sweaters made with wool from other breeds of sheep may be a little scratchier but tend to be stronger and last longer.
Avoid any knits that look like they might pill quickly or stretch out easily. Sparks suggests pulling a bit on the shoulders to see if there is more resistance to stretch than the rest of the sweater. “This means the sweater has been well finished and will generally do better at holding its shape over time,” he says.
Finally, these days, some sweaters are made with responsibly sourced or recycled wool – and that might be a consideration for you as well. “There’s a lot of companies becoming more and more transparent in their origins of wool fibre now,” says Sparks. With any specific sustainability certification or standard, such as Nativa regenerative wool or the Responsible Wool Standard, you can look up the program details online to confirm the rigour of the criteria.
Six buys to try
In the men’s section
The milled wool for this mock-neck sweater from Muji’s new-to-Canada Labo line looks thick but is also soft and cozy to the touch. It fits large, so you may want to size down from your usual. Muji Labo men’s milled wool mock-neck sweater, $120 through muji.ca.
This half-zip might look fairly basic, but the innovation here is that it’s made with a more sustainable fibre, Nativa regenerative merino wool, which is traceable and produced using stress-free shearing. It’s available in both men’s and women’s sizing. Pangaia regenerative merino wool half-zip sweater, $305 through pangaia.com.
Designed in Montreal, this unisex cable knit sweater is made overseas with a 100-per-cent extra-fine merino wool. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee, so you don’t have to worry about a sweater that will fall apart after just a few seasons. Vallier Dalston midweight merino cable knit sweater, $230 through altitude-sports.com.
In the women’s section
Available in six different colourways, this striped crewneck is made with a fine 100-per-cent merino wool yarn from Italy. Just note that you won’t be able to machine launder this sweater; the recommended care is hand washing. Wilfred Maria merino wool sweater, $138 through aritzia.com.
Made with Nativa regenerative wool, which complies with certain animal welfare standards and land-management guidelines, this fine-knit sweater features a stylish neckline that features a built-in scarf detail. Cos scarf-detail wool turtleneck jumper, $175 through Cos stores.
Part of Uniqlo’s latest collaboration with French fashion label Comptoir Des Cotonniers, this warm half-zip is made with 100-per-cent wool. Available in four neutral colours, it’s a loose-fit sweater that can be worn solo or over a T-shirt or turtleneck. Uniqlo and Comptoir des Cotonniers lambswool half-zip sweater, $60 through uniqlo.com.