Husband and wife open dream South Indian cafe in Toronto

In a city like Toronto where chai latte reigns and double-doubles dominate the caffeinated scene, a new South Indian cafe is brewing more than just coffee, it’s sharing a story steeped in history.

That tale begins in the 16th century, when Baba Budan, an Indian Sufi saint, is said to have smuggled seven coffee beans from Mocha, Yemen, hidden in his beard. That’s when India’s love for coffee began.

It’s a story I learned from Neha Rohatgi, who, along with her husband Amal Kashyap, bring the rich traditions of South Indian filter coffee to Toronto.

Though its origin is unclear, it’s believed to have become popular in Karnataka, India in the colonial era, centuries ago.

The childhood friends turned husband-and-wife duo are behind Mayil Coffee House, located at 870 College St, which recently held its grand opening on Dec. 13, 2024.

But this place represents more than just a business. It’s a hub where their passion for creating connections fosters a sense of belonging – a home away from home, crafted by two people who understand the beauty of bringing others together.

From Tech and Science to Filter Coffee

And Mayil is actually a passion project for the couple. Kashyap is a tech manager navigating the corporate world by day, while Rohatgi is a scientist focusing on Cancer research.

Their passion is so strong, that they’re juggling their careers while running a business in their free time. Despite this, they say they have no desire to leave their full-time jobs.

But that doesn’t mean they are not dedicated to this new venture. The two bring together different yet harmonious strengths that fuel their passion – filter coffee, traditionally known as filter kaapi.

Rohatgi grew up in Delhi, India but studied in the southern part of the country, in Tamil Nadu. “That’s where I got introduced to filter coffee and all the South Indian food,” she says.

“In the north, we drink chai, in the south, we drink coffee. A lot of people don’t know that we grow coffee in India and coffee is a big part of South Indian culture.”

The Act of Brewing

She mentioned that the simple act of brewing filter coffee is a symbol of hospitality and a connection to tradition.

For Rohatgi, this cultural immersion not only introduced her to its bold flavours, but looking back at it now, it creates a deep nostalgia, a yearning for authenticity and warmth of comfort.

“By creating a home for others, it’s like a home for us. I think that was my big inspiration to create a space where people can come, chill, feel a bit of nostalgia,” Rohatgi added as she pointed to the decor that adorns its walls.

Every piece of art in the coffee shop is hand-painted and its fabrics come directly from India. “It reminds me of my mom and grandmother’s Sarees and their dresses,” shared Rohatgi. “Small things that remind you of that home feeling. So we want this to be a space where you sit and feel like your loved ones are around.”

The thoughtful attention to detail in the cafe’s decor reflects the couple’s lifelong dedication to creating spaces that feel like home, a feeling born from their lasting relationship and desire for uniting people.

More Than Coffee, A Taste of Home

“We have been together for so long, we’ve been dating since we were kids. We have grown up together and we have always invited people into our homes and we want to build that community,” said Kasyap. “So this is an effort towards building that.”

Besides the added touches within the space, and the rest that is yet to come from India, the duo plan on hosting experiences that further formulate that sense of belonging – one of them being an education workshop on how to make traditional filter coffee.

“I like to learn a lot and I’ve researched as much as I can on filter coffee,” shared Rohatgi. “I want to build a community of filter coffee lovers, then work with them, tell them all about this coffee.” When asked when they plan on hosting these education sessions, Rohatgi said she hopes to create monthly or weekly ‘get-togethers’.

Hands-On Brewing

Testing the experience before it’s available to the public, I got to prepare a traditional South Indian filter coffee myself. Rohatgi brought out a stainless steel filter, a few cups, spoons, boiling water and a traditional saucer which is called a dabarah.

The grounds had an earthy, almost woody smell with hints of chicory. Similar to an espresso grind, I put three spoonfuls of the coffee into the stainless steel filter. The stronger, the better.

Here I learned that I need to smooth out any bumps to ensure the grounds are ready for the filtering. Boiling water was then poured inside, just before the rim. Though normally this will be brewed the night or a couple hours before it is enjoyed, for the sake of the workshop, the coffee blend is already prepared for mixing.

The next part includes hot milk sweetened with sugar and a lot of back and forth – pouring, that is. From dish to cup and vice versa, a frothy top is then formed. Once ready, it is served in a metal tumbler, inside the saucer.

I’m no stranger to a deliciously brewed cup of coffee – it must be sweet, but not too sweet, and strong.

Growing up in a Latin American household, you can say coffee is an important part of my life. Whenever friends came over, my mother would have the kettle on and water boiling before they even stepped through the door. A cup of coffee wasn’t optional; it was essential.

That’s why I understand the deep cultural significance coffee holds for families. The act of preparing it evokes cherished memories, and its taste carries a sense of warmth and nostalgia.

I felt all of that after my first sip here – familiarity. Despite our different backgrounds, flavours, and traditions, this very cup made me nostalgic, it tasted like my home.

It’s this sense of connection and belonging that Mayil Coffee aims to create with every cup served.

Though the coffee workshops are new and still in the works, Rohatgi plans to offer them in the new year, and they will be offered for free in an effort to create cultural (and coffee) awareness. They have a date set for Jan. 11, 2025, for their first upcoming event, with further details being shared on their Instagram at a later date.

And for now, if you want to try it, their filter coffee can be had for $4.75.

“We love our jobs, but this is also something that we love and we all always wanted to build,” shared Kashyap. “We spoke about building a community and inviting people in, and that’s our passion.”

In Toronto, coffee often feels like part of your mindless daily routine, but this South Indian coffee shop reminds us that every cup can be an experience, a memory and is part of history.

Mayil Coffee is located at 870 College St. The cafe is open daily from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. and Saturdays until 7 p.m.