Canadian Paul Doyle, who has opened a couple of properties in Barbados – the Crane Resort and, more recently, East – has worked to keep the vibe genuine.Michael Grimm Photography/The Crane Resort
Surrounded by lush palms, bearded fig trees and sea grape, I survey my domain: cascading plunge pools with a backdrop of the turquoise Atlantic Ocean ripped by whitecaps. A short walk away is a recreation of a historical village, with a town square that hosts vendors and local entertainment. I stop on the path to watch a Barbados green monkey sitting on its haunches, surveying the passing visitors. Weeee-wee-wee-wewe, weeee-wee-wee-wewe – what’s that? Oh, the opening credits of The White Lotus, playing in my head.
The conceit of the hit TV series is that luxury hospitality comes at a hidden cost. Behind every visitor’s seamless, glossy experience is a more sinister backstory. But Canadian Paul Doyle, who has opened a couple of properties in Barbados – the Crane Resort and, more recently, East – has worked to keep the vibe genuine.
While both are luxury resorts, the longer I stay, the less convincing The White Lotus comparison is, and that’s not an accident.
East is a series of quiet modernist villas, each of which has a dramatic ocean view and private pool.The Crane Resort
Why you should visit
In 1988, Doyle sold his Oakville, Ont., home to pay for a historic property, an 18-room hotel on the breezy east coast of Barbados, near what was once a busy wharf. Now the Crane is a 40-acre complex of 13 buildings whose aesthetics owe something to the original 1887 building on site.
More recently he bought land next to a national park farther up the rugged east coast and turned it into East, a series of quiet modernist villas, each of which has a dramatic ocean view and private pool. While he has plans to develop the spot further, adding cafes and a fitness centre, at this point it has accommodations only.
However, guests at East have access to all the amenities at the Crane, a 15-minute drive (or free shuttle) away.
The Crane is a 40-acre complex of 13 buildings whose aesthetics owe something to the original 1887 building on site.The Crane Resort
The Crane has five restaurants, three bars and a variety of other amenities, including a gym and a golf simulator. (The massage at the Crane spa, after a super challenging yoga class, turned me to certifiable mush.) Its “town square” encourages relaxed communing and people-watching. Not all the restaurants are created equal – the food ranges from fantastic (Zen, the Thai and Japanese restaurant) to meh – but there is ample choice.
Families will appreciate details like a kids’ club, where trained staff can mind the young ones while parents order an Attitude Adjustment (an actual cocktail on the menu) or bury their nose in a book for a while for a different kind of attitude adjustment.
East, by contrast, is designed for guests who really want to get away from it all. The layout of the villas makes great use of the surrounding natural beauty; windows and doors open to the outdoors and private gardens, so you can feel like you’re showering in the jungle. The ocean views are uninterrupted, wild and rugged.
I did not use the air conditioning once; there’s no need on the east coast, where breezes don’t stop, and I kept the balcony doors open to let the booming of the waves lull me to sleep.
The layout of the villas makes great use of the surrounding natural beauty.William Chan/The Crane Resort
Room for improvement
Tourism in the Caribbean faces a constant dilemma: how to acknowledge the legacy of slavery and colonialism in an industry where, to this day, mostly white guests are served by mostly Black staff (although brown and Black guests also vacation at the Crane; the clientele is not at all homogeneous). Doyle is looking to transform an old plantation house at East into a cafe – this could be the perfect occasion to gently acknowledge the island’s true past while still encouraging hospitality.
At present, East has no eating establishments, but meals can be delivered, or you can hire a private chef to prepare meals in your villa’s kitchen. Groceries can also be delivered ahead of a visit. This adds to the seclusion (and, arguably, inconvenience) of the experience.
The Crane is luxe but unpretentious, and offers comforts and amenities to all age groups, from seniors on down.The Crane Resort
Lastly – blame changing wind patterns – beaches on the east coast often sport thick carpets of sargassum seaweed. A special raking vehicle does many passes to keep Crane Beach clear each day, but the beach at East had almost no visible sand. Generally, the waves on the east coast are intense, only suitable for thrill-seeking adult swimmers, but there are loads of pools on the properties. Plus, Carlisle Bay, a 40-minute drive away in Bridgetown, offers calm, clear ocean water that’s shallow forever, great for anyone who has kids or zero body-surfing aspirations.
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
Crane Beach is almost self-contained, but one gem worth leaving for is Cutters, a casual restaurant across the road from the resort. Its legendary rum punch comes with lashings of nutmeg; the restaurant’s fish cakes and pumpkin fritters, served with pepper sauce, are a succulent, zesty complement. Upon learning that I was not a seafood-lover, but was open to conversion, Roger Goddard, the owner, brought out an off-menu “flight” of three beautifully prepared fish. Bonus: Dog lovers may get the chance to throw a frisbee for Goddard’s happy doodle.
Another Caribbean classic that cannot be missed is roti, rice and beans, which can be had at the nearby Delon’s.
The takeaway
Crane Beach is almost self-contained.Ross Oscar Knight/The Crane Resort
The Crane is luxe but unpretentious, and offers comforts and amenities to all age groups, from seniors on down. Boredom is an unlikely bedfellow here, with a daily roster of social activities, from rum or wine tastings to pickleball to painting classes. East is an introvert’s paradise, and nearby trails offer hikers even more spectacular views. At both places, the sea is a constant companion. Whether or not you swim, the Atlantic here is curative, with its refreshing breezes, spectacular colour and lulling sound.
- East villas are booked through eastresort.com; East guests have access to amenities at the Crane. For details, thecrane.com. Cost per night of East villas: winter: US$645, summer: US$431, includes all taxes and daily breakfast.
The writer was a guest of the resort. It did not review or approve the story before publication.
