Sarah Pidgeon at the Met Gala in New York on May 4. The ‘Love Story’ star walked the red carpet rocking blurred lips.DANIEL COLE/Reuters
Whether it was Naomi Campbell in the 1990s or Kaia Gerber in the 2020s, the runway loves a good lined lip – and so, it seems, does everyone else these days.
Perhaps one of the most emblematic beauty looks of the nineties, lip liner was popularized by the supermodel culture of that decade. Catwalk icons such as Campbell, Kate Moss and Cindy Crawford walked the runways with sharply defined lips created using a darker liner and lighter shade of lipstick.
Before that, the lip combo was common in Latina, Black and Brown communities as a way to outline, shape and contour the lips – a technique adopted in response to a lack of available lip shades for those with darker complexions.
Makeup artist Nina Park, whose soft-blurred liner looks have gone viral online and spawned countless imitators, created a similar look for Zoë Kravitz and other stars.ANGELA WEISS/AFP/Getty Images
Although lip liner never fully went away, the look has experienced a resurgence lately, popping up on runways, red carpets and social media. Sparked by nostalgia and a return to all things nineties, the trend’s comeback now has its own modern touch.
Toronto makeup artist and hairstylist Veronica Chu has worked with celebrities such as Coco Rocha. She said today’s lip liner look leans softer.
“The nineties was a very defined lip – sharp edges, strong contrast, very intentional. Now it is more blurred and lived in,” she said.
Shade preferences have changed too. There are more neutral tones and soft, cool browns compared to the dark browns of the nineties. But what really sets the current trend apart is that the liner is blended out with a finger or brush, Chu said.
Makeup enthusiasts are building lip looks around liners and pairing them with different types of finishes, according to Pinki Gosal, chief innovation officer of Canadian beauty brand Vasanti Cosmetics. “Consumers are layering liners with glosses and balms for a more effortless finish, instead of the sharp outline look from the nineties,” she said.
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As with so many beauty trends these days, social media has bolstered its ubiquity. Chu cited brownie glazed lips – a look that involves using a deep brown liner paired with a clear gloss to achieve a glazed finish – as one style that brought liner back into everyday makeup routines in a way that feels fresh and approachable.
Makeup artist Nina Park, whose soft-blurred liner looks have gone viral online and spawned countless imitators, has created similar looks for stars such as Gerber, Zoë Kravitz and Emma Stone. And at this year’s Met Gala, celebrities such as Rhode founder Hailey Bieber and Love Story’s Sarah Pidgeon walked the red carpet rocking blurred lips.
It also helps that today’s lip liners are easier to use, partly because of changes in formula and the availability of inclusive shade ranges.
“Now liners are creamier, more hydrating, and easier to work with,” Chu said. “You still get longevity, but it feels comfortable on the lips and blends seamlessly.” Plus, you can match and enhance your natural lip colour instead of forcing a universal shade of brown, she added.
How to achieve the look today
Warm browns, rosy nudes or maroon-toned lip liners are a great option for beginners because they enhance the natural lip colour while adding dimension, according to Gosal. These shades are the easiest to control and the most forgiving, added Chu, and the creamy formula is easy to blend, creating a soft effect without a need for precision.
Both experts recommended staying close to the natural lip line and focusing on subtly shaping the lip versus over-lining it. Chu starts with soft, feathered strokes at the Cupid’s bow and fades out as she moves outward.
Gosal suggested using a liner that’s close to your natural lip tone or slightly deeper. It can then be paired with a gloss, balm or other lip product of choice before blending. “Fingers or a brush to soften edges makes all the difference,” Chu said.
For a more dimensional look, tones can be layered by using a neutral brown base and adding a slightly cooler shade in the corners of the mouth to add a natural shadow, Chu said.
“It is really about balance,” she said. “The lip should support the face, not compete with it.”
