Though Torontonians were mourning the loss when Momofuku checked out of the Shangrai-Lai, it didn’t take long for its replacement, Mott 32, to steal the grieving hearts.
There’s a reason that the Chinese restaurant brand has swept the globe with world-class locations in Los Vegas, Dubai, Singapore, Seoul, and Hong Kong to name just a few. One of the most anticipated—and successful—openings in the last year, the three-level Toronto restaurant, which serves a modern take on Cantonese classics, demands those at its helm to have an air of innovation like no other.
That’s why, behind every last detail on the expertly crafted plates is chef Kin Ming Yeung, who has decades of experience in Cantonese cooking. Born in the Fujian province of China, he grew up in Hong Kong before moving to Toronto in 1988, and played a role in a number of successful restaurants including, in Toronto, Jumbo Lobster and Yu Seafood Yorkdale.
“Once I got into culinary arts, I fell in love and it’s the passion and dedication that got me here more than forty years later,” he says. “It’s part of my identity and more than just a career.”
Yeung was working in the kitchen when Mott 32 executive chef Lee Man Sing dined at Yu Seafood at Yorkdale Shopping Centre and was impressed by the innovation he saw. He knew he wanted to get Yeung involved in the Toronto expansion of the global company and Yeung was up for the challenge.
“It’s very challenging in Toronto specifically because we have multiple competitors in the industry and we want to do something that is unique and innovation, but at the same time still follows the traditional of the cuisine,” he says. “Although I’ve been in the industry for so long, we still have that fresh, innovative thought with those adaptions, and that never stops being the goal of what we’re doing.”
So how does he maintain the innovation and stay ahead of the constantly changing culinary trends? By looking ahead.
“Because I’ve been so deeply rooted in the cuisine and seen most of how it’s been done traditionally, when we make a new dish or new menu, not only are we creating something that is popular, but we’re making adjustments to that standard,” he says, noting the menu is meant to invite all demographics who dine at Mott 32. “We still have the roots of the traditional, authentic cooking style but with a touch of modern take to accommodate for younger palates.”
While he notes it’s not always easy to run a kitchen with the standard required of Mott 32, Yeung is humble in his recognition of those who make up the team that surrounds him.
“We have the background, experience, and the skills to execute this place to be upscale Chinese restaurant, which is rarely seen in other places,” he says. “There’s many attempts in places trying to do the same thing, but the lack of crucial knowledge is not necessarily making things newer or better. Knowing what makes a dish good is very crucial.”
