When thinking about the Danforth, it might not occur to you that a ubiquitous dish from a country in Europe other than Greece has earned the area yet another distinct claim to fame — that of being home to the city’s oldest pizzeria serving exclusively pizza.
Despite only (if ‘only’ is an appropriate term here) being under the ownership of the Manikas family for the past decade, Danforth Pizza House has stood proudly near the intersection of Danforth and Donlands for the past 60 years, serving its first-ever slice all the way back in 1964.
Founded by Angelo D’Auria, a Calabrian Immigrant who settled in the then-largely Italian neighbourhood, Danforth Pizza House quickly became a neighbourhood favourite — and, all these years later, it’s safe to say it still is.
Angelo passed away in 2013, just a year shy of the pizzeria’s 50th anniversary, and the business fell to his son who, a year later, sold it to Chris and Elizabeth Manikas who, alongside their sons, Vasili and Dimitri, have continued Angelo’s legacy today.
“Our father first discovered Danforth Pizza House in the late 80’s after emigrating from Greece to Canada in order to attend university,” Vasili tells blogTO. “Back then Angelo had an old Gaggia espresso machine and our father would come to the restaurant for a coffee.”
Years later, the family “rediscovered” the pizza shop, delighting particularly in Angelo’s signature crust which Vasili describes as “light and airy with a crisp snappy texture that reminds you of a well made Italian bread.”
“The dough makes the pizza and this dough was truly special.”
The news of Angelo’s passing caused a shockwave throughout the community, who had not only grown used to the friendly face who could readily be found tossing dough in the shop’s window, but the shop’s presence as a whole. After 49 years in business, it was nothing short of a local landmark.
What would become of Danforth Pizza House without Angelo, and his son, who inherited the shop, looking to sell?
Enter Chris and Elizabeth, who at the time were operating another restaurant, who bravely took on Danforth Pizza House with some heavy encouragement from Vasili and Dimitri.
“My brother and I were still in highschool at the time but we pressured our parents to make an offer, promising them that we would help work the business as much as necessary,” Vasili tells blogTO.
“After 10 years at Danforth Pizza House we can say that it was one the best decisions we made as a family.”
Cutting their teeth on Angelo’s pizzas by eating them as a family, it was only natural that, once Chris and Elizabeth bought the business, they’d be operating the pizzeria as a family, too.
Ten years, two university degrees and a number of adventures in various career paths later, Vasili tells blogTO, and both he and his brother ultimately made the choice to devote themselves to the pizzeria full time.
As the Manikas family’s story as the 0wners of Danforth Pizza House has only begun in recent years, Vasili tells blogTO that one of the most rewarding parts of operating the shop has been getting to know regulars and hear stories from folks who had visited the pizzeria over the years.
“People come in who haven’t been in the neighborhood for decades and they’re amazed that the place is still here,” Vasili says.
“They start telling you about their lives, about growing up around, about how they used to get the pizza. Some went to school at Eastern Commerce High School and would order the pizza with their friends. Others came here with their families.”
One couple, Elaine and Zeke, worked for Angelo back in the 70’s, have been married for 40 years and stop by for a pie (which are still made using Angelo’s original recipe) from time to time.
Then, there are customers like Luigi, Vasili says, who have lived in the neighbourhood for the past 60 years, and who have kept Danforth Pizza House a regular dinnertime rotation for years — “only now he brings his grandsons to help him carry the pizza,” Vasili adds.
In terms of the future of Danforth Pizza House, the Manikas family’s approach falls firmly in the “if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it,” camp.
“Although we’ve had to renovate the restaurant since we bought the place, the recipe has remained exactly the same,” Vasili tells blogTO.
“Our plan is to keep making the same great pies that have made this place so special. It’s a unique pizza that you just can’t find anywhere else,” he says.
In Vasili’s opinion, Danforth Pizza House’s pizza is one that’s distinctly Torontonian, giving the city the chance to put it’s own stamp on the iconic dish in much the same way that cities like New York, Chicago and Detroit have so loudly.
Ultimately, though, the end goal isn’t necessarily to make Angelo’s pizza recipes the stuff of international acclaim, but rather to uphold a local institution when so many — including a number in the neighbourhood — have crumbled.
“If we can introduce more people to this pizza than that’s amazing, but our goal has always been first and foremost to serve our neighborhood and all the amazing people that have supported us through the years.”
Danforth Pizza House is located at 920 Danforth Avenue.