Filling the wine rack for March means selecting wines that go with the flow. As days become longer and weather patterns fluctuate between a mix of rain and snow, it’s a matter of embracing wine styles that are appropriate to the changing scene.
This late in the season, frost-sparkling nights have lost their lustre. Instead, we expectantly look for any sign of spring’s renewal.
When it comes to wine appreciation, the quality of what’s in our glass is important, but the feeling that liquid conjures is essential to their enjoyment.
That’s what separates wine consumers from wine shoppers. There are shelves of wine to choose from, an endless stream of red, white and pink selections. But, which of them is going to hit you in the feels?
Some wine styles are never out of sync, such as the satisfying lemon-cream sensation of a well-made Brut champagne or the beautifully balanced styles offered by Cune Crianza or Peller Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc. They are wines for all seasons in my estimation.
The tremendous quality versus price ratio of the Robertson Winery Chenin Blanc 2024 makes it a reliable go-to whenever there’s a need for a fruity and refreshing white. Other selections have a seasonality to their character, with layers of flavour and complexity, that are best appreciated while we’re still sheltering from the cold.
Cune Crianza 2020 (Spain), $17.95
This long-standing favourite has been produced every year since the Compania Vinicola del Norte de Espana was founded in 1879. The wine’s style is dialled in; focusing on grapes grown in the Rioja Alta region, near the winery, with a blend of mostly tempranillo and small additions of grenache and carignan that are aged for one year in American oak. The newly released 2020 vintage shows proper Rioja character, with a satisfying mix of fruity, spicy and earthy notes. It has 14 per cent ABV and three grams/litre r.s. Vegan. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in British Columbia and Alberta, $18.99 in Manitoba.
Meyer Family Vineyards Pinot Noir 2023 (Canada), $25.30
A specialist in chardonnay and pinot noir production in the Okanagan, Meyer focuses its production on estate-grown fruit from vineyards in Naramata, Kaleden and Okanagan Falls. This newly released 2023 pinot is a blend of those sites with additional fruit from Anarchist Mountain Vineyard in Osoyoos, which results in a savoury and complex red wine that’s well-crafted and offers solid value for its price. A pleasant core of cherry and berry fruit is enhanced by spice, earthy and floral notes. It has 13.5 per cent ABV and one gram/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available direct, mfvwines.com.
Mission Hill Reserve Merlot 2021 (Canada), $32.95
Mission Hill’s team continues to improve its grape-growing and winemaking practices year over year, which means more flavourful and refined wines for consumers. The Reserve Merlot made in 2021 is a prime example of the fine-tuning at work. This is a well-structured red with layers of flavour and a vibrant full-bodied character. A blend of estate-grown grapes from vineyards located in Oliver and Osoyoos, this is drinking nicely now with potential to age. It has 14.5 per cent ABV and three grams/litre r.s. Drink now to 2031. Available at the above price in Ontario, $31 direct, missionhillwinery.com, $34.99 in British Columbia, $32.99 in Manitoba, $33.25 in Quebec, $33.80 in New Brunswick.
Peller Private Reserve Sauvignon Blanc 2023 (Canada), $23.95
Winemaker Katie Dickieson takes special interest in sauvignon blanc, which has become one of the focal points for Peller Estates’ portfolio from Niagara. The Private Reserve label is one of three styles produced each vintage. A blend of tank- and barrel-fermented lots, this is the happy middle between Peller’s refreshing and fruity entry-level expression and the rewarding barrel-fermented model released as the Signature Series label. It’s clean and correct, with bright citrus and ripe tropical fruit notes carrying through to a persistent finish. It has 13 per cent ABV and two grams/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Robertson Winery Chenin Blanc 2024 (South Africa), $11.70
Produced in Robertson in the Breede River Valley region, this affordable chenin blanc is a blend of fruit from family vineyards in the town. The style is leaner and simpler than more expensive chenins coming out of South Africa, but the wine offers an impressive balance between its vibrant acidity and fruity character. It’s a commercial but friendly white that can be enjoyed with or without a meal, which makes it a solid house wine candidate. It has 13 per cent ABV and six grams/litre r.s. Drink now to 2026. Available at the above price in Ontario ($9.70 until March 2), various prices in Alberta, $12.25 in Quebec, $15.24 in Newfoundland.
Susana Balbo Signature Barrel-Fermented Torrontes 2024 (Argentina), $22.95
Torrontes is an expressive grape variety from Argentina that produces fragrant and fruity white wines. Its intense floral and citrussy charge can be polarizing – drawing comparisons to lemony air fresheners or cleaning products in some instances. Winemaker Susana Balbo takes the unusual approach to produce a barrel-fermented version that dials down the grape’s exuberance character a notch and contributes texture and richness to the compelling finished blend. It has14 per cent ABV and two grams/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available in Ontario.
Tenuta San Guido Le Difese 2022 (Italy), $46.95
First released from the 2002 vintage, Le Difese is a cabernet sauvignon and sangiovese blend that includes wines from the estate in Bolgheri that didn’t fit into the blend for Sassicaia or Guidalberto as well as grapes purchased from other parts of Tuscany. The 2022 packs a lot of charm, with appealing red fruit and plum mingling with spice and woody notes that add to the appeal of the wine’s enticing perfume. The freshness and complex character make this an inviting red to drink now, but there’s a promise of more complexity and roundness developing from aging in bottle. It has 13.5 per cent ABV and two grams/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $58.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $45.69 in Manitoba, $44.75 in Quebec.
