Seven wines to enjoy in the dog days of August | Canada Voices

Sometimes, it’s too hot for red wine. Particularly when consumed outdoors in the humid air, a glass of something lighter and more laid-back often has more appeal.

That’s why so many of these recommendations are fresh whites that can be enjoyed on their own or as part of a meal. They are the sorts of wines I like to open before dinner, especially when I’m uncertain of what to serve.

A local riesling would suit the mood and weather forecast. If you don’t have a favourite in mind, Cave Spring, Thirty Bench or Megalomaniac are great Ontario wineries, while CedarCreek, Tantalus and Peak Cellars are British Columbia producers of note.

But I’m suggesting whites with richer characters from British Columbia this week, a remarkable sparkling from Evolve and an expressive white blend from Moon Curser that is a rare homegrown 2024 Okanagan wine.

Looking further afield, there’s the latest vintage of Ken Forrester’s sumptuous South Africa chenin blanc – easily one of the most consistent, better-value white on offer – and the cheap yet enjoyable sauvignon blanc from Paul Mas’s operation in the Languedoc region of southern France.

Of course, the heart wants what the heart wants. If the heat hasn’t dampened your enthusiasm for a robust red, there’s a bells-and-whistles red Bordeaux or a savoury sangiovese blend here to savour.

Château La Bridane Saint-Julien 2022 (France), $66.95

Rating: 92

Operated by the Saintout family, La Bridane is a 15-hectare estate located in the northern part of the Saint-Julien appellation, near Château Léoville-Poyferré and Léoville-Las Cases. A blend of both cabernets with merlot and petit verdot from the hot and dry 2022 vintage, this delivers classic style with good concentration, structure and freshness. A core of ripe blackcurrant and berry fruit is layered with complex earthy and savoury notes. The tannins and texture are silky and approachable. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2035. Available in Ontario.

Evolve Brut Nature 2018 (Canada), $49.99

Rating: 91

The Evolve label has just opened its tasting room and hospitality space on Lower Bench Road, entering the Okanagan’s Naramata Bench appellation. Winemaker Lynzee Schatz has overseen production of the sparkling wines for Evolve and its sibling winery, Chronos, since 2019. The Brut Nature 2018 is a serious sparkling wine produced with a base wine blend of chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot blanc that aged for five years on the lees (dead yeast cells) after its secondary fermentation in bottle. The result is a rich and refreshing sparkling wine with yellow apple, pear and lemon fruit alongside nutty, earthy and toasty notes. It’s dry and balanced, with appetizing flavour from start to finish. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 1.5 r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, timewines.ca.

Ken Forrester Old-Vine Reserve Chenin Blanc 2024 (South Africa), $18.95

Rating: 91

One of South Africa’s most trustworthy labels, this old-vine chenin is a prime all-season house wine candidate. Produced with chenin blanc grown in a variety of Stellenbosch vineyards. The style is rich and refreshing, with a mix of barrel and tank fermentation and aging contributing to the approachable character. Look for melon, peach and pear flavours enhanced by lemon balm, lime zest and earthy notes. It’s ready to drink, with potential to develop in the cellar. Visitors to the winery are often served a 10-year-old chenin to show how well this wine can age. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2034. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $32.99 in Saskatchewan, $23.99 in Manitoba, $19.55 in Quebec.

Lungarotti Il Pometo Pinot Grigio 2024 (Italy), $19.95

Rating: 89

Winery founder Giorgio Lungarotti planted pinot grigio vines in the early 1970s, with pinot noir and chardonnay, to produce sparkling wines in Umbria. This still pinot grigio, produced for Lungarotti’s Il Pometo label, strikes a nice balance between freshness and concentration, with riper peach and banana broadcast with green apple and herbal flavours. The refreshing character makes this enjoyable with a meal or on its own. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.

Lungarotti Rubesco Sangiovese/Colorino 2021 (Italy), $20.95

Rating: 90

Rubesco is a sangiovese-based blend made by a family-owned winery in the village of Torgiano in Umbria. First produced in 1962, this has become one of Umbria’s best-known red wines. The 2021 vintage is developing nicely, presenting a mix of cherry, berry and spice notes as part of its vibrant, fuller-bodied character. There’s nice structure and texture to the presentation, with nicely integrated acidity, fruit and alcohol. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $24.21 in Nova Scotia, $22.99 in Prince Edward Island.

Moon Curser Roussanne Marsanne 2024 (Canada), $28.99

Rating: 90

One of the few white wines produced in the Okanagan in the 2024 vintage, this is made with roussanne (69 per cent) and marsanne (31 per cent) grapes grown in vineyards in Osoyoos that survived the January cold snap. A mixture of tank and barrel fermentation and aging results in a rich white wine that offers peach and citrus fruit with some floral and honey notes. Enjoyable now, this promises to gain more honeyed and complex flavours with age. This has 13.8 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Vegan friendly. Available direct, mooncurser.com.

Paul Mas Sauvignon Blanc 2024 (France), $13.95

Rating: 88

This expressive and enjoyable white from the south of France shows riper sauvignon blanc character, with plenty of drive and freshness. Expect juicy citrus and peach fruit flavours enhanced by pineapple and lemongrass notes from this nicely balanced, medium-bodied wine. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario ($11.99 until Aug. 17).