My first wine column appeared 25 years ago (on May 6, 2000, to be exact) and invited readers in the Niagara region to embrace the aromatic charms of local wines made from the gewurztraminer grape. The premise was the tongue-twisting name of the grape shouldn’t stop consumers from ordering a style of wine that they might like. They could call it the G-wine, shorten it to “ga-VERTZ” or merely point to the name on the wine list.
Since then, however, the market for Canadian gewurztraminer has gone the way of video stores and dial-up internet. It still thrives in Alsace and parts of Germany, producing wines with distinctive flavour, suggesting notes of lychee, spice and flowers, but has been replaced by more popular varieties elsewhere. In addition to the intimidating name, consumers struggled with the wine’s complex and often sweeter style.
Other aromatic and dry whites, including viognier and sauvignon blanc, have risen to prominence in its place. These are styles of wine that delight my senses, especially in spring when everything is in bloom. Some long-standing favourites are recommended this week along with some other refreshing wines that stood out in recent tastings.
Authentic Wines & Spirits/Supplied
Cono Sur Bicicleta Viognier 2024 (Chile), $11.95
Rating: 89
Cono Sur has turned this expressive and concentrated white wine into one of the most consistently reliable bargains in the country. The peach, apricot and honeysuckle character of the viognier grape are displayed in a rich and refreshing manner. The full flavour might be too intense for an aperitif, but the crowd-pleasing style is enjoyable on its own or with food. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 7 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $12.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta, $12.40 in Quebec, $13.99 in New Brunswick, $13.83 in Nova Scotia.
Domaine de la Colline Muscadet Sèvre et Maine 2022 (France), $20.95
Rating: 89
Made with the melon de Bourgogne grape, this pure and satisfying white comes from a family estate in the Nantes region of the Loire Valley. Muscadet is typically described as light and refreshing, a zesty wine to quaff while enjoying oysters and other simply prepared seafood. This conveys fleshier fruit than the usual lemon zest, which adds to its appeal. This has 12 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available in Ontario.
Fonjoya Expression Du Sud Rose 2024 (France), $13.80
Rating: 88
A traditional regional blend of syrah, grenache and cinsault from the Languedoc, this charming rosé makes the most of its berry and citrus fruit flavours, with a rounded texture and gentle finish. The style is refreshing and graceful rather than attention-getting, which makes it pretty much perfect for summertime enjoyment. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Family Wine Merchants/Supplied
Gérard Bertrand Réserve Spéciale Viognier 2023 (France), $16.95
Rating: 90
This expressive viognier from one of the south of France’s most popular winemakers gets the balance between ripeness and freshness right, while offering the expected mix of peach, apricot and white floral notes. Made in a dry and medium-bodied style, this flavourful white has the texture and weight of a chardonnay with more personality. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $21.01 in Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar).
Rogers & Company/Supplied
Langlois Château de Thauvenay Terroir Calcaire Sancerre 2022 (France), $44.95
Rating: 90
Part of the Bollinger Group since 2022, this family-run estate owns vineyards throughout Sancerre and neighbouring appellations in the Loire Valley. This stylish sauvignon blanc comes from an 18-hectare estate surrounding the château. It’s a dry and distinctive white, with a fresh and floral character than opens to suggests a mix of apple, citrus and tropical notes. This has 12.5 ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, sold as a case of 12 bottles, direct rogcowines.com, various prices in Alberta.
Family Wine Merchants/Supplied
Luigi Bosca Malbec 2023 (Argentina), $19.95
Rating: 90
Luigi Bosca is operated by the Arizu family, which has been producing wine in Mendoza since 1901. This multiregional blend represents the winery’s largest production. It’s designed to capture the concentrated character of malbec grown in the Luján de Cuyo region and the structure and vitality that comes from the Uco Valley. Expect a fruity core of plum, cherry and berry fruit that’s bright and focused with some savoury and floral accents. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $26.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $23.95 in Manitoba.
Quinta da Aveleda Vinho Verde 2023 (Portugal), $15
Rating: 88
The historic Aveleda estate, which was founded in 1870, is the home of the largest producer and exporter of Vinho Verde wines. The brand is well known for its popular Fonte label, while the Quinta da Aveleda represents a step up by focusing its blend on loureiro and alvarinho, two of the region’s highest-quality grape varieties. This is a dry white with appealing lime and herbal notes that are easy to appreciate. This has 12 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $17.84 in Nova Scotia, $17.99 in Prince Edward Island, $18.32 in Newfoundland.
Roche Artist Pinot Gris 2024 (Canada), $27
Rating: 90
Like many Okanagan winemakers in 2024, the winemaking team at Roche found replacement grapes from outside of the region after the loss of their crop owing to a devastating January frost. The most exciting of their recent releases is this inviting pinot gris, produced with grapes from Gladhart family vineyard in the Dundee Hills appellation of Oregon’s Willamette Valley. The core of apple, citrus and white peach fruit is juicy and layered, making for a dry and balanced white that’s ripe and tangy. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 1.13 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, rterroir.ca.
