Let me start by saying it was a personal goal of mine to keep as many of my travel plans as possible in Canada this year. While some of the obvious choices were tempting (PEI in the summer, B.C. in the winter, etc.), I opted for a spot that I had actually never heard of until this year: Le Massif de Charlevoix. This all-season mountain resort in Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, Que., (just one hour from Quebec City) exceeded all my expectations, and here’s why it needs to be your next getaway.

An all-season paradise

Le Massif was officially acquired by Daniel Gauthier (who, fun fact, was also the cofounder of one of Quebec’s biggest successes: Cirque du Soleil) in 2002.  The very first skiers, however, were welcomed in January 1980, when school buses were used to shuttle skiers to the summit before any mechanical lifts were in place. The first ski lift was installed in 1992.

In 2021, Le Massif added the first mountain village by Club Med North America, “a pioneer in the field and a world leader in all-inclusive ski vacations.”

As I said, the resort is all-season, meaning you can visit any time of year, but we decided to check out Le Massif in the winter for the skiing.

Skiers and snowboarders will not be disappointed. The resort boasts a massive ski area with 53 trails and glades spanning 406.3 acres, and an annual snowfall of around 545 cm. My boyfriend and I are on completely different levels when it comes to our skills on the slopes (I’m a beginner, and he’s been skiing his whole life), and we both were able to enjoy the mountain to the fullest.

Image via Jean Sébastien Chartier Plante

If you’re like me and are just starting your journey skiing (or snowboarding), you can book a lesson, which I highly recommend. Shoutout to my instructor Claire, who not only taught me so much but was also one of the kindest people I have ever met.

Okay — we need to talk about one of the other winter activities that literally and figuratively blew me away: sledding. I know what you may be thinking, “We’ve all gone sledding before.” But I can almost guarantee it wasn’t like this.

le massif
Image via Jean Sébastien Chartier Plante

Your adventure starts at the summit of the mountain, where you can either take the catski or snowshoe the 3 km to the start of the track. You’ll also be fitted for a helmet if you don’t have your own, and pick up your sled. We snowshoed, which I think really added an element of fun. Once you reach the launch point, you gear up for a 7.5-km-long luge track ride (the longest in North America) and let me tell you, it’s one of the most fun things I have ever done in my life.

At the halfway point, you stop at a chalet for some hot chocolate with your crew of new friends, and then finish the ride at the bottom of the mountain, before taking the gondola back to the summit.

I already can’t wait to return so I can do the sled track again. I truly can’t express how awesome it was.

Other winter activities at Le Massif include:

  • Snowshoeing
  • Cross-country skiing
  • Night sledding
  • Gondala rides

The mountains call in the summer, spring, and fall as well. Hiking trails, canyoning, lookout spots, and mountain biking all await.

Accommodations, sips, and bites

So, you have a few options when it comes to accommodations. The Club Med at the mountain is all-inclusive, meaning you won’t have to worry about a thing.

“Nestled at the base of our mountain, Club Med’s first Canadian resort offers breathtaking views on the river’s edge, so you can live the best life and lifestyle all year round,” shares Le Massif. One of the coolest parts of Club Med is that you don’t have to stay overnight. Day passes come with access to:

  • Indoor heated pool and jacuzzi
  • All-you-can-eat food and beverages from Le Marché restaurant (premium beverages available at extra cost)
  • Fitness center and other fitness classes
  • Free Wi-Fi
  • Parking (indoor at extra cost)

There’s also a night pass, which comes with its own set of experiences like live music, entertainment, and a nightclub. You can combine the two as well, and try out the complete pass, which provides access from 10 a.m. to 1 a.m.

We stayed at one of the mountain’s chalets, just a two-minute drive to the summit. The chalets are gorgeous, each outfitted with a fully equipped kitchen, a fireplace and multiple bedrooms. They also come with a hot tub, which we definitely appreciated after a long day on the slopes.

Image via Jean Sébastien Chartier Plante

Apartments at the base of the mountain and studios at the summit (perfect for two people) are available, too.

Now, time for one of my favourite parts about travelling: the food.

The cafeteria at the summit chalet deserves its flowers. While cafeterias are known for serving up the essentials for getting through a day on the mountain, Le Massif’s caf stands out above the rest. One of the first things we learned about the cafeteria is that it has never served fried food. Yep! The dishes are fresh and are meant to nourish your body. We had delicious sandwiches, pasta from the pasta bar, and homemade soups (just to name a few things). All of them were a 10 out of 10 in my books.

Also located inside is Pub Le Grand Duc — the place to be for the après. We were there on one of the days with live music, which really got the party started. Here, you can enjoy pub-style snacks and, of course, beverages for all.

What really stood out to me, though, was Camp Boule, the restaurant at the summit. Nestled at Le Massif’s highest peak, this spot offers panoramic views and some of the best food I’ve had in a very long time.

Image via Jean Sébastien Chartier Plante

Under the leadership of Chef David Forbes, the menu here is small but mighty. We tried the beetroot salad with cured salmon, the grilled beef macreuse, migneron cheese raclette, sturgeon, and two desserts: pear cheesecake and chocolate cake. You simply cannot come to Le Massif and not try Camp Boule.

Overall, I cannot say enough nice things about Le Massif. It wasn’t overcrowded, the views were beautiful, the people were amazing, and I will be back without a single doubt in my mind.

Canada is meant to be explored, and this four-season slice of heaven is the perfect place to start.

Where: 185 Chemin du Massif, Petite-Rivière-Saint-François, Que.

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