illustration by the globe and mail
I never thought I’d be the type of person to get a hair transplant. While I wasn’t vain enough to think I’d fully escape the trappings of a midlife crisis, I figured it would manifest itself as a fixation with high-end stereo equipment or Japanese denim. At the very worst, I’d buy a synth or start learning jiu-jitsu. The idea of cosmetic surgery always seemed a little desperate.
Still, looking at the family hairline – bald spots for the lucky men, chrome dome for the rest – was like looking at the ghost of Christmas future. I was haunted by the notion that one day my head would be smooth like a newborn, sadly resigned to the reality that north of 30, I’d need to go full Bruce Willis. Embracing the concept was harder than I’d imagined. As a skin crown emerged in the middle of my head in my 20s, I began to experiment with tinctures and rollers. When my temples receded, I started to wear a beanie indoors. Looking in the mirror I was equally embarrassed by both my thinning hair and by how much it bothered me.
When the option for a transplant came up last year – a procedure from an Instagram-famous clinic offered in exchange for press and social-media coverage – I decided to pull the trigger, the threat of being cringey outweighed by the threat of being bald at 35.
After a 10-hour flight to Istanbul, I found myself lying face down on a surgeon bed, farther from home than I’d ever been in my life. A comically sized needle was inserted into the back of my head for numbing, the worst pain I’d ever voluntarily endured in my life. And over the course of the next seven hours we tried to turn back the clock on my head.
I’m not the only one who has gone this route. Celebrities such as Elton John have gotten new hair. It’s speculated that A-listers such as Harry Styles and David Beckham have also gone under the knife.
According to a recent U.S. study, procedures are up 16 per cent in recent years. That’s in part owing to improved techniques. In the nineties, FUT (follicular unit hair transplant) procedures would cut a large strip from the back or side of the head to harvest transplant hairs. The science was imprecise, painting with a roller instead of a brush, leaving mixed results and nasty scars.
Newer FUE (follicular unit extraction) transplants take individual hair follicles from the back of the donor area and move them to the front. This creates a more natural look and hardly noticeable scars. For those taking the leap, results can be a game changer.
“My confidence has shot through the roof. It’s tremendously impacted my self esteem,” said Chukwunonso Ezekwueche, a pharmacist and influencer based in Toronto. Ezekwueche had a transplant for his beard late last year, filling in patches of the jawline that he believed were patchy. The boosted confidence has led to leaps forward in his social life and even career.
“It’s helped lead to brand deals through my Instagram. It’s helped me make money. It’s helped with friends. Sporting a full beard has really changed my life.”
But those changes don’t come cheap. Depending on the clinic and doctor, procedures can run anywhere between $5,000 and $15,000. Some high-end clinics can cost even more. Those looking for a cheaper alternative might turn to medical tourism. Across the internet you can find reviews of dozens of clinics around the globe, each post looking for the sweet spot of quality care and affordable cost.
One popular destination is Turkey. But according to Dr. Zafer Cetinkaya of EsteNove, a clinic in Istanbul, practitioners trying to make the most bang for their buck has led to a questionable reputation for the region.
“When someone comes to our clinic, I’m looking at them as a patient, not as money. We’re not accepting anyone who wouldn’t be suitable for a hair transplant, people over 65 or with heart problems. People who may not have the right donor areas. We want to create reasonable expectations but some clinics are just looking for a payday.”
Some clinics in North America and abroad overpromise. The goal of the procedure is usually to look younger, but is the hairline going to be appropriate for your current age? What about when you get older? Unlike your regular locks, transplanted hair won’t fall out over time. That means if you continue to lose your natural hair with age, it could result in an uneven look that is less than desirable. The best doctors will help you plan for a hairline that is going to seem natural and serve you in the long run.
“People see some before and after on TikTok and immediately assume that’s the kind of surgery they want,” said Dr. Gary Linkov, a renowned plastic surgeon in New York specializing in hair restoration. “But patients don’t necessarily know what’s better. It’s important that doctors are able to set boundaries and help educate clients on the best results.”
On his social channels Linkov walks through what successful and less successful transplants look like, educating viewers on what to look for and even what people can do outside of surgery.
“Whenever I have a patient come in for a consultation the discussion is about more than just surgery. You want to be looking at the bigger picture. Why are people losing hair? Are they on any medical treatment for the hair loss? What’s the family history? People shouldn’t immediately jump to surgery without exploring other options.”
I’m about a year removed from my own hair transplant. While I’d assumed the surgery would mark the end of my hair anxieties, that hasn’t really been the case. Nowadays instead of worrying about losing hair, I worry about whether the hairline drawn for me actually suits the framing of my face. I look at my new hair, examining everything closely in the mirror. Friends assure me it looks great, that I look years younger.
I’m not so sure. If you’re prone to insecurities about your appearance, a weird thing is that making changes doesn’t always fix those insecurities. Searching for a surgical solution can be a slippery slope too.
Lately I’ve been thinking about undergoing a second transplant to make adjustments to the things I’m still not happy with and to cover the areas still noticeably thin. But I’ve also been thinking that maybe a better solution is finally embracing the fully shaved look more appropriate to my age. Despite efforts to fight against it, there is no escaping time.
