The Ossington-Dundas corner, long a hub of Toronto’s dining and drinking scene, has welcomed Kensei Bar, a 90s-inspired Korean and Japanese vinyl bar which took over the space once occupied by Bouffe by Adjey.
Kensei spins jazz vinyl six days a week and features housemade feature cocktails inspired by the genres of jazz, including ragtime, swing and blues. The drinks are complemented by Japanese small bites made in-house like wasabi peas, curry croquette, octopus with cucumbers and black tiger shrimp.
Kensei marks the second venture from culinary brothers Hansang and Juwon Lee, who also own Gonzo Izakaya, now joined by co-owner and friend Hyunchan Jo. Having worked in kitchens since their mid-teens, The Lee brothers moved from Korea to Toronto in the 2010s and completed culinary school, before finding respective roles at Michelin recommended George and since shuttered Italian restaurant Ascari King West.
Juwon Lee and Jo first connected while working at George, with Juwon later introducing his brother Hansang. The trio quickly bonded over their shared culinary dreams, nostalgic memories of ’90s Korea, and a passion for music. Kensei was born during a night of drinks and dreaming, when they realized their vision for Toronto’s bar scene aligned perfectly.
“We’ve been craving new genres of bars in Toronto,” says Hansang Lee. “We’ve been to cities like New York and Tokyo where there are really interesting styles of bars. But in Toronto we find the bars are very similar– dark, dim lighting, and classic cocktails everywhere. We’re kind of sick and tired of that, and we know lots of people are also waiting for something they’ve never experienced before.”
The interior channels what Juwon Lee describes as “someone’s grandparents’ 90s living room,” featuring floral wallpaper, Tiffany-style hanging lamps, and retro wall clocks — all sourced from Japan. After months of construction starting in the summer, Kensei opened its doors in late November.
Signature cocktails at Kensei are split into three jazz-inspired categories: Ragtime features tea-based, low-ABV, floral sips; Swing leans citrusy, savoury, and bright; and Blues delivers full-bodied, smoky, spiced creations. Each list boasts three to four original drinks, including a Dundas West-inspired riff on a Manhattan.
“Ragtime is predominantly piano-based, slow and sweet.” says Hansang, “Swing is bubbly and dancy. And Blues [evokes] a smoky melancholy–something heavy like Jazz saxophone.” They change the daily vinyl (mostly jazz) depending on the mood or the weather. “If it’s a sunny day, we’ll play something a little brighter. If it’s rainy, we play something groovy or sentimental,” he says. Jo is a record collector and brings many of his personal vinyls to play.
Hansang says that one of his favourite things to do in his downtime, is to sip whisky while listening to jazz music, with some incense lit, so that he can turn his mind off. He hopes that guests can feel the same way at Kensei.
Kensei Bar, located at 1173 Dundas St. West, welcomes guests Sunday to Thursday from 6 p.m. to 1 a.m., and Friday and Saturday until 2 a.m. Tuesdays are for vinyl enthusiasts — bring your own records to spin.
