Wisconsin overtook both New York and the entire country in dairy production. “If Wisconsin was a nation, we’d be the third-largest producer in the world,” says Hook. Today, Hooks Cheese still uses annatto to color its bestselling 5-year cheddar. They start by pasteurizing local milk from cows raised on the limestone-rich soil of southwestern Wisconsin, which Hook says gives the cheese a distinct flavor. The milk is heated with starter culture and color and left to thicken as the bacteria grows. From there, curds begin to form.

It takes about 10 pounds of milk for every pound of cheese, with the remaining liquid whey being used for fertilizer. And while Hook says the 5-year cheddar remains popular with both restaurants and home cooks, he’s been having fun producing some newer products. No after what, he loves seeing customers’ reactions at the farmers market. “It’s satisfaction with knowing you’ve made something.”

Watch the latest episode of Handmade to learn how Hooks Cheese produces its signature cheddar, and is experimenting with new products as well.

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