After Japan lifted its COVID pandemic travel restrictions in the spring of 2023, no other country in the world saw a tourism explosion like theirs.
It’s easy to see why travellers are drawn to the country’s impeccably clean streets, its ever polite, helpful but conservative people and, of course, centuries of history – some still easily accessible.
Kyoto has long been at the top of my list of places to visit. The city, known as the cultural capital of Japan, is home to numerous Buddhist temples, the Imperial Palace, Shinto shrines, traditional wooden houses and meticulously kept gardens – all make visiting here a photographer’s delight.
My wife and I had a chance to visit Kyoto last fall as part of a six-week trip around Asia, when we wouldn’t be faced with the oppressive midday heat, and might be spared large crowds of tourists.
Half the fun of Kyoto is getting lost in the traditional Gion district, where one can experience fine kaiseki dining, consisting of multiple courses, meals made with meticulous attention to detail, perfectly served sake and if you’re lucky, a glimpse of a traditional geisha entertainer walking the narrow streets.
On this trip, we opted out of following one of the many tour guides, holding their telescopic antennas with a red flag on it, radio loudspeaker strapped to their sides, explaining everything there is to know in a quick Google search.
Instead we hopped on the efficient subway (although you really do not need to say that in Japan as practically everything is efficient) and left our hotel early each day.
From downtown Kyoto, a quick 20-minute train ride will get you to the outskirts of the city, and in the mornings you can have the bamboo forest and shrines all to yourself.
A must-see is Arashiyama Park, home to numerous shrines and temples. A quick five-minute walk from the subway stop has you transported into the Arashiyama bamboo forest where early morning light sculpts the towering bamboo trees.
The air is instantly cooler as you walk through the forest and the sounds of the city fade away, replaced by the screeching calls of monkeys and birds. A good day can be spent roaming the area and visiting the temples that date back to the eighth century.
It’s not until midday when the tour groups hop off their buses and invade the paths, dressed in their Japanese kimonos rented at one of the many shops at the start of the trail. Once invaded, it’s a perfect time for a light Japanese lunch at the food stalls scattered next to the park.
Unlike Western food courts where meals are plonked on a tray, food vendors in Japan take immeasurable pride in what they prepare and serve.
Freshly made yakitori (grilled chicken skewers), takoyaki (balls of grilled octopus), mitarashi dango (grilled sweet rice dumplings) – the list goes on. Each dish looks like its been made for years in the same spot by the same people, most often because it has.
Back in the city, there are a few streets where all of the tourists go. The Higashiyama ward, where many of the small streets have the feel of the feudal-era Japan, can be packed by midday. If you don’t go there early in the morning, you’ll be crammed shoulder-to-shoulder with people. Kyoto quickly loses its lustre if you get caught in the human traffic jam.
For the remainder of our days, we travelled to the outskirts of the city, getting lost in the alleyways and streets that aren’t on the tourist maps.
In the evenings for a dose of fun, we ventured into the Nishiki Market, a top attraction with its food stalls and shops. A walk down Pontocho dori, a narrow alley lit up by the whisky bar’s paper lanterns, takes you back in time. As a photographer, I couldn’t miss the opportunity to photograph Shinbashi dori, known as the most beautiful street in all of Japan. The small street, in the heart of Gion, brightens up with lights from lanterns reflecting off the adjacent river, while weeping willows blow softly in the evening breeze.
Bathed in the beautiful soft Japanese morning light, we discovered the magic of the Imperial Palace, Kaiko-ji Temple, Maruyama Park, built with their amazing attention to detail and use of natural elements.
I sought the quiet stillness, reflection, simplicity and beauty of Kyoto. It happily gave back – before the crowds arrived.
Tourists can book a rickshaw ride near the Jojakkoji Temple in Kyoto.
