Why I’m heading back to Montego Bay after Hurricane Melissa | Canada Voices

Anyone visiting Montego Bay will find it hard to miss the life-size sculpture of Usain Bolt, made literally out of bolts, on the Jamaican resort town’s famed Hip Strip. Now, it seems almost poetic the way the sculpture captures Bolt’s signature lightning pose in front of what was once the famous Olympian’s restaurant, which caught on fire not long after Hurricane Melissa swept through the town in October, 2025. The image seems to say that Mother Nature can keep trying to keep Jamaicans down, but they more than persevere.

It’s difficult to overstate how devastating Hurricane Melissa was for the island. At least 120,000 buildings, most in southwestern Jamaica, lost their roofs, displacing 90,000 people. Many residential areas were left without power and water for weeks and at least 45 people died. Many residential communities are still struggling with the storm’s aftermath, but for tourists and travellers, it’s business as usual and there’s no better way to support the local economy than by visiting.

“The signature Jamaican experience that travellers know and love remains unchanged,” Edmund Bartlett, Jamaica’s minister of tourism, wrote in an e-mail interview. “Every day, we make progress toward fully resorting Montego Bay’s vibrancy and we look forward to sharing these efforts with our visitors.”

For me, returning to Montego Bay was not a question of if, but when. I visited for the first time in early 2022 with my partner Isac, who is of Jamaican descent. I never expected to fall in love with Montego Bay. I certainly never planned to plant roots here. But after the lockdowns, the island offered a balm to shattered nerves. We gambled on a condo in the Freeport area. When the agent handed me the keys, and said, “Welcome home,” I’ll admit, I cried a little.

Since then, I visit from Toronto four to six times a year.

I returned in mid-December last year with a glass-half-full perspective. Air Canada reports it has gradually added capacity on flights to Montego Bay to meet demand after the storm and I had no trouble securing a slightly less-than-average price for tickets at this time of year. The damages to Sangster International Airport I’d read about in news reports was nowhere to be seen. Other than brown patches in the hills, downed trees and street signs, the tourism experience remains largely the same.

Which is not to say there weren’t some casualties. Marina Palms, a popular restaurant and bar for visiting celebrities, such as Nigerian singer-songwriter Burna Boy, Jamaican reggae singer Kranium and Canadian fashion model Winnie Harlow to name a few, is only offering takeout. The owner, Deidrick Miller, said the hurricane, followed by a scotch bonnet pepper shortage, convinced him to pivot and reopen in the second half of 2026 in a new location.

“Although the storm came and put a damper on things, the rebuild will be stronger and be greater than before,” Miller told me.

Some of the big hotel chains in town were hit hard as well. Both of Sandals’s properties in Montego Bay remain closed until the end of May. Seven of the Hyatt’s hotels will stay shut until November.

Still, many of the hotels bounced back surprisingly quick, including the Iberostar Rose Hall complex of three hotels and the four Riu hotels and resorts. The S Hotel and the H10 are also open. All are reporting high occupancy rates although some relief workers remain in town.

“We have been in constant contact with the Canadian market and are seeing it react well, which confirms we are on the right track to recovery. Guests arriving at Iberostar Rose Hall complex today will find a resort that is fully operational and delivering the experience they expect,” said Nick Balzan, senior vice-president of commercial and sales at Iberostar Hotels & Resorts.

It’s no secret that Jamaica relies heavily on tourism, with 4.3 million visitors last year generating US$4.3-billion. Nearly half a million Canadians travelled to the Caribbean island in 2025.

Tourism does help locals, even those not in the industry. Iberostar implemented a support plan for its 1,700 employees suffering from hurricane-related damage, offering relief bonuses, care packages and a program to assist with urgent home repairs. Sandals Resort has their own non-profit foundation to support locals.

On my way back to Toronto, Franz Bauer, a contractor from London, Ont., noticed our duty-free boxed rum and asked if we had just returned from Jamaica. He and his family were on their way home, too.

“Islands get hit with hurricanes like we get snowstorms. I would never let that change my opinion on whether to travel or not,” he told me.

The insiders’ guide to the Caribbean

In Montego Bay, the Grand Decameron and Zoetry Montego Bay are scheduled to reopen later this month. Many Airbnb’s and villas are also available. Short-term rentals can often provide a more authentic Jamaican experience. Hotel reopening dates are found on Jamaica’s tourism website.

Other Jamaican hot spots, such as Negril or Ocho Rios, survived Hurricane Melissa largely unscathed. Pick Negril if you’re looking for a beach experience, and Ocho Rios if the lush landscape of Dunn’s River Falls appeals. If you find yourself in Ochi – the local name for Ocho Rios – stop in at the Courthouse Gallery & Cafe displaying some of the island’s hottest artists in a historic setting. Don’t expect a deal, but stay for lunch and drinks, especially the daily juice creation or the never-to-be missed Blue Mountain coffee.

My favourite places to eat in Montego Bay

DLE Cafe – Hands down, the best spot for smoothies and vegan burgers anywhere. The sign on the door warns you that good food takes time, so don’t expect fast service.

Uncorked – This restaurant has an extensive wine list with locally inspired meals, generous portions, and creative brunches and cocktails. Many vegan and vegetarian options are available as well as a menu clearly listed for allergies.

The Houseboat Grill – Take a short trip on a manned raft to this historic boat-turned-upscale restaurant and bar with a fresh lobster tank in the floor. In 1982, it doubled as the green room for visiting artists attending The Jamaica World Music Festival, hosting the likes of the B-52s, Aretha Franklin, the Clash, the Beach Boys and the Grateful Dead. Fun fact: Caribbean lobsters have no claws.

The Pelican Grill – A landmark eatery on the Hip Strip, with an authentic 1970s vibe. Go for an authentic Jamaican breakfast.