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Chef David Schwartz has created something unique: a steakhouse-deli hybrid inspired by his mother’s Shabbat table, with a perfect balance of warmth, theatre and fine cuisine. Linny’s, isn’t just a restaurant. It’s dinner and a show — a space to gather with friends and for many Torontonians to be introduced to the most wonderful elements of the city’s Jewish past.
From the moment you step inside, the love letter begins.
Schwartz’s mother’s recipes hang proudly on the walls, framed like treasured artifacts, as if you’ve entered a New York eatery lined with autographed photos of legends.
Two immaculately dressed hosts greet you with a warmth that feels like an invitation into their home. As they guide you past the nine-seat bar — where white-uniformed bartenders in bowties are expertly mixing drinks — the energy of the space unfolds.
Booths to the right, tables to the left and an open kitchen framed in glass at the back — all tied together with a retro nod to the faux-wood-panelled dining rooms of yesteryear, elevated by linen-clad tables and comfy chairs.
Linny’s is as much about telling a story as it is about feeding you. That story is one of Toronto’s Jewish community, from its roots on Spadina Avenue — now Chinatown and just south of the Ossington strip it calls home — to the family homes up Bathurst Street, stretching into Thornhill. It’s a story of tradition, hospitality and the shared joy of food.
A menu inspired by tradition
The menu is an homage to the chefs childhood roots, as previously mentioned seamlessly blending the traditions of a steakhouse, a delicatessen and Friday night dinner.
For starters, the show begins with what they call challah service. The small round domed warm homemade egg bread is a revelation. Served with fresh cream, house-made jam, a side of homemade pickles and dill tomatoes, it sets the tone for what’s to come. The bread is soft and fluffy, begging to be torn, dipped and shared — a communal beginning that mirrors the spirit of a family table.
The simple green salad follows and offers a delightful crunch worthy of a chef who has obviously paid some attention to this simple dish. The crunch is from seeds or cracklings, though the dressing it leans a bit vinegary – I would suggest a milder vinegar and a bit more acid would make this salad truly shine.
One of the evening’s, most traditional and comforting dishes the kasha and bowes, is a buckwheat and pasta dish made with chicken butter (which you can request vegetarian style — without any fuss). This is the definition of comfort food, it feels like it was plated straight from Schwartz’s childhood.
Main courses with love
The shake-and-bake chicken is a showstopper. With a light breading that doesn’t overwhelm, it’s a crispy, tender ode to the 1970s dinners of countless Toronto families. Paired with honey and a house-made hot sauce, it allows diners to choose their own adventure: sweet or spicy. It’s nostalgia elevated to an art form.
The much-talked-about online pastrami, however, fell slightly short. At $49, it’s rich in flavour but a bit too fatty for my taste. In most delis, you can choose your meat to be fatty, medium fatty or lean, and I think that would be a great option for this dish. Additionally, I found myself wishing for a side of coleslaw to cut through the richness and add a bit more balance to the meal.
We paired the pastrami with the Karnatzel, a Jewish slim Jim or hot rod, it arrives slightly charred and wonderfully warm, served with a side of spicy mustard. It’s a perfect balance of smoky and savoury.
In addition, for the non-meat lovers, we tried the daily fish special. On this night, it was sea bass with a pickle sauce. While this may not be on the menu when you visit due to the ever-changing nature of the daily dish, it was perfectly cooked, and the sauce was a wonderful surprise. It combined the sea bass — an ingredient featured on many Toronto menus — with a traditional sauce that likely comes from his mother’s recipe.
Linny’s fries, which we decided to order given the steak house theme, are served on a small silver platter. Crispy and golden, they rival the offerings of any high-end steakhouse in Toronto.
A sweet ending
Dessert is not to be missed. The chocolate babka, a staple of Eastern European Jewish cuisine, is served warm with a scoop of ice cream. Its layers of chocolate are rich but not cloying, making it the perfect dish to share among four people. It’s a decadent yet comforting conclusion to the meal.
Strangely, I highly recommend a visit to the washroom, where some of the detail is on display. A peek into the incredible open kitchen or a seat at the bar, with its chic 1970s stools, will also enhance the experience. I guarantee that this is the best-trained, highest level of service you’ll find on Ossington, an area not traditionally known for it.
Linny’s is the city’s best new restaurant. It’s not cheap — $330 for dinner for four — but think of it as more than just a meal; it’s like dinner and tickets to a show, with chef David Schwartz as the Andrew Lloyd Webber of your evening. I bet his mother is very proud.
