Your fall gardening to-do list | Canada Voices

We’ve all been taught that spring is the official gardening season, full of seed packets, shiny tools and muddy knees after the thaw. But gardening experts say that thinking is outdated and may be doing our plants a disservice. Fall, with its golden light and cool breezes, is actually a prime opportunity for planting and prepping.

“Fall is a wonderful time to start or expand gardens,” says Peggy Brulé, Lee Valley Tools’ category expert for garden, kitchen and home. “It’s still sunny, but cooler temperatures, shorter days and dependable rainfall are ingredients that make plants happy. Planting in autumn gives a month or two for plants to grow roots and become established before everything freezes.”

In other words, the soil is warm, the microbes are still active underground and plants can settle in without the stress of summer sun.

Master gardener Sean James in Milton, Ont., adds that fall is perfect for checking for disease and pests, and for dividing grasses, perennials, shrubs and trees that are gangly or overgrown and would be happier if they were moved.

Here’s a checklist of gardening chores to do now so your garden looks fabulous – and your workload is less – come spring.

Take stock of your garden

Think of fall as your garden’s report card. Which plants thrived and which ones struggled? Are there glaring holes or spots that are overcrowded?

Brulé recommends keeping a journal so you can “remember what worked well in your garden and what did not.” Jotting things down and having a handy reference means you’re less likely to make the same mistakes next year.

Weeds are at their lowest ebb in fall, making it an ideal time to inspect for trouble. “The rule of thumb is to look for something different – something that catches your eye and looks wrong,” James says. Irises, for example, are susceptible to iris leaf spot, and hostas can fall prey to hosta virus X.

To prevent spread, cut off diseased foliage, bag it, seal it and put it in the trash – never in compost, James says. (For the hostas, be sure to sterilize your tools between pruning each plant so you don’t spread the virus.)

Take a leisurely stroll through your garden, noting where water has pooled, stones have shifted or steps are wobbling. If repairs are beyond your skill, call a landscape company now so you’re not scrambling to get a spot in the spring, James says. It’s also worth testing your soil and making adjustments before the next planting season.

Pruning and dividing

Perennials that flop or refuse to flower may need space or a change of location.

“My rule of thumb is to divide a plant into three to five growth points,” says James, who uses two garden forks to gently lift the sections. Asters, mums, daisies, echinacea, black-eyed Susans, hydrangeas and many others can all be divided or transplanted now.

Traditionally, gardeners pruned heavily in fall, but this is changing as horticulturalists learn the benefits of leaving plants intact for overwintering insects.

James is adamant: “Do not cut your garden down.” (The exception is perennials with disease or insect issues, which should always be pruned in fall.)

Brulé agrees, noting that heavy pruning “stimulates new vulnerable growth that can be killed by frost.” Plants, she explains, channel energy into roots for winter survival.

Sturdy plants with seed heads or ornamental value, such as coneflowers or ornamental grasses, are better left standing whole until spring. They provide visual texture and interest and are also food for birds, James says.

Brulé prefers a tidier winter garden. She cuts long seed heads off day lilies and hostas when the plants are fully dormant. However, she leaves the stalks by the side of the compost (not in it) to shelter pollinators.

She also recommends edging garden beds and pulling weeds in the fall. “Spreading out these tasks means you have less to do in the spring.”

Planting

Don’t shy away from fall planting. While annuals bid adieu, perennials, trees, shrubs and grasses thrive when tucked into the earth now. Aim for at least four to six frost-free weeks to let roots establish.

Some seeds – columbines, primroses, shasta daisies – need a winter chill to germinate, so sow them this season. “Fall is also the best time to plant peonies, when there is time for the feeder roots to grow strong before going dormant,” Brulé says. A thick (10-centimetre) blanket of mulch will keep them cozy.

Bulbs belong in fall soil too. Layering is key. Start with the largest bulbs and latest bloomers (tulips), planted deep – three times their height, James says. Cover with soil, then add midseason bloomers (daffodils and hyacinths), followed by early bloomers (crocuses and snowdrops). In spring, depending on your region, you’ll enjoy waves of blooms from March through May.

As for lawns, James recommends dormant seeding. “After it’s cold and going to stay cold, but before snow, level the area with topsoil, then put down seed. It will emerge early in spring and establish before it gets hot and dry.”

Cleanup

A little tidying is good. A deep clean can hurt your garden.

“Mother Nature abhors a vacuum,” Brulé says. “If you clean too aggressively there is no protection for your plants and their roots.” Mulch fallen leaves with your mower and scatter them across beds: They act as a blanket and a provide a nutrient boost.

Annuals have had their run. Pull them from pots, store containers for winter and save the soil, mixing it with compost to use in your beds and pots next spring.

Resist the urge to wrap shrubs in burlap too early. “We still have great fluctuations in temperatures this time of year,” Brulé warns. Covering too soon can do more harm than good.

Finally, give your tools some love too: Scrub dirt off, sharpen blades and rub linseed oil on wooden handles.

Fall may be quieter, but it’s anything but idle. With a few mindful touches, your garden will snooze through winter and wake up spectacular in spring.