The lip balm aisle is full of choices. Experts explain how to pick the perfect formula | Canada Voices

Though winter hasn’t technically started, chapped lips are one of the first signs that the seasonal shift has arrived. The unique composition of the mouth – the skin is thin and comprises three to five layers compared with 16 layers that are found on the face – and its exposure to various elements can create the perfect storm for a bout of dryness. But the right lip balm can help maintain a soft, flake-free pout.

Jen Novakovich, a cosmetic scientist and science communicator who translates scientific and marketing jargon in the beauty industry through her platform the Eco Well, says chapped lips are the result of transepidermal water loss. “It’s related to skin-barrier disruption,” says the Ontario-based expert. “Your skin gets worse at keeping moisture in, which translates to drier skin and a slew of other skin issues, potentially.”

According to Dr. Mimi Tran, a dermatologist at Embrace Skin Dermatology Clinic in Winnipeg, factors that can irritate the skin include cool and drier climates, ingredients in certain cosmetic lip products such as fragrance and flavouring (such as cinnamon and mint) and exposure to spicy foods that may contain capsaicin, a component of habanero, jalapeno and cayenne peppers. “Saliva is a common culprit, too,” she says. “It is ironic but as our lips get dry, we tend to lick them, making our lips even more dry.”

A lip balm with key ingredients can help to repair and protect the skin barrier. Specifically, Novakovich looks for a mix of occlusive and humectant ingredients. “Occlusives, such as petrolatum, hydrogenated castor oil, shea butter and beeswax, work by creating a barrier to trap water in your skin, while humectants, such as panthenol or glycerin, work by attracting water,” she says. “The combination bodes well for improved moisturization.”

Tran, who is also a fan of thick ointment-style balms with a petrolatum base, includes ceramides and dimethicone on her list of healing ingredients. “Ceramides provide moisture, and dimethicone locks in moisture and protects from harsh environmental exposure,” she says.

The experts also have ingredients they pass on. “Propolis, a product typically found in beeswax-based lip balms, can cause a condition called allergic contact dermatitis in some patients,” says Tran. If you have eczema, she suggests avoiding fragrance and flavouring agents, which can irritate skin more. For Novakovich, menthol is a no-no. “It offers a cooling sensation on the lips that a lot of people like, which is why brands put it in formulas,” she says. “I find it irritating, and I know I am not alone. It’s one of those ingredients that you either love or hate, and I’m definitely in the latter group.”

The basic rule to remember: A simple, effective lip balm should be non-fragranced, non-coloured and hypoallergenic, says Tran. And if your lips still feel dry, switch to a thicker lip balm with a heavier consistency that feels protective.

Six buys to try

Key ingredients and comforting textures team up to care for dry lips, starting at $9.

A multipurpose stick takes the occlusive quality of petrolatum to glide over chapped lips, and more, without involving messy fingers. Vaseline All-Over Body Balm Jelly Stick, $9, Walmart

Suitable for sensitive skin, this fragrance-free balm is made with 5-per-cent panthenol, along with shea butter and glycerin, to soothe and protect. La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Lips Barrier Repairing Balm, $15, Shoppers Drug Mart

A blend of hyaluronic acid, castor and sunflower seed oils, plus peptides, help to increase hydration and strengthen the skin barrier. Biossance Pro-Peptide Hydrating Lip Perfector Balm, $25, Sephora

Protects lips during outdoor activities, with shea butter, avocado oil and Vitamin E boosted by UV filters to relieve dryness and shield from the sun. Jack Black Moisture Therapy Lip Balm Shea Butter SPF 25, $15, getjackblack.ca

Along with shea butter, a whipped texture created by a handful of oils (i.e., grape, castor and sunflower seeds, avocado and coconut) helps to shield and restore chapped lips day or night. Three Ships Buttercream Hydrating Lip Mask, $25, threeshipsbeauty.ca

This creamy formula has a sustainable edge: the beeswax and shea butter are responsibly sourced from women-led communities in West Africa and the tube is made of 90-per-cent recycled paper. Burt’s Bees Shea + Coconut Oil Moisturizing Lip Balm, $13, Shoppers Drug Mart