Which Wine Pairs Best With Beijing Duck at E-Tang in Savannah?

A wine shop and a Chinese restaurant are unlikely neighbors, but here, just off Savannah’s Crawford Square, E-Tang and Limestone Wines are inseparable. The owners enjoy a symbiotic relationship. David Xin of E-Tang was the first customer at Limestone Wines, and for a spell, sommelier and Limestone Wines owner Jamie Crotts subsisted solely on xiao long bao and Sichuan beef noodles. Now, Crotts dines at E-Tang a more modest three times a week but still knows the menu well enough to pair, making Limestone the ideal stop before heading in for dumplings, especially during Lunar New Year.

E-Tang’s Sichuan food empire is now four restaurants deep, but it didn’t immediately take off. The charred wok’s breath (a Cantonese phrase used to describe the smoky flavor from a hot wok), and numbing spices undercut with umami notes were all new and intimidating to the collective Savannah palette in 2021. “The first few months were slow,” says owner David Xin, “not too many people in Savannah knew about Sichuan Chinese food. They would order General Tso chicken and beef and broccoli — very basic dishes.”

Today, Xin sees his clientele leaning a little more intrepidly. Though his favorite dishes — pork intestines, beef, and fish in a spicy soup and garlic snow pea leaves — are still criminally underordered, he notices his regulars indulging in more ma la plates.

E-Tang fans can complement the biting Sichuan flavors of their favorite menu items with fresh flair this Lunar New Year by toting Limestone Wines bottles to the restaurant for a $10 corkage fee.

The Ultimate E-Tang and Limestone Wines Pairing Cheat Sheet

The elements of Chinese cuisine are complex, making wine pairing a gratifying challenge. Kick off the year of the Wood Snake with these pairings for some of E-Tang’s most popular and unique dishes from Crotts and Limestone managing partner Hunter Jones.

Pork Soup Dumplings

Grosjean “Vigne Tzeriat” 2022
Region: Valle d’Aosta, Northern Italy
Grape: Pinot Noir

Why it works:
“Dumplings are a universal New Year food across China,” says Xin, and E-Tang hand folds its soup dumplings daily. For pork xiao long bao, Crotts says pinot noir from the cool-climate regions of northern Italy is perfect. “The savory and earthy qualities of the pinot meet those of pork, while the tartness of a cool-climate wine offers a welcome flavor to a hot soup. Soft tannins provide a bit of texture for everything to hold onto without overpowering the delicacy of the flavor.”

Chili Oil Wontons & Garlic Cucumbers

Eva Fricke “Kiedrich” 2022 Riesling
Region: Rheingau, Germany

Why it works:
Alternating bites of chili oil wontons and garlic cucumbers take your palette from heat to sweet to sharp, then back across the gamut. “Riesling is no longer a secret in the world of pairing with Chinese food — it has become the trusty weapon of choice,” says Crotts. “Many rieslings have a slight sweetness that can offer a gentle barrier for your tastebuds against peppers and spice. We have actually chosen a dry riesling here to show that the pairing is supported by more than just sugar. The fruity elements of the wine still play nice with spice, while the vibrant acids keep your mouth watering.”

Jason B James

Fish Filet in Pickled Cabbage Soup

Venus la Universal “Dido” Blanco 2022
Region: Montsant, Spain
Grape: Macabeau, Garnatxa Blanca, Cartoixia

Why it works:
E-Tang’s fish filet in pickled cabbage soup is a sleeper worth exploring and one of Crott’s most exciting pairs. It’s brimming with Sichuan peppercorns, ginger, and soft, starchy boiled fish. “The sour cabbage soup lends such a simple, nourishing sensation while managing to maintain a complex and intriguing flavor,” Crotts says. “We chose an equally understated wine for the pairing. The Dido Blanco is a blend of native Spanish varietals that emphasize the non-fruit characteristics that a white wine is capable of. The purity of this white is a perfect match for the fish, but it also brings a broad range of intangible non-fruit flavors that land between savory, nutty, earthy, and umami.”

Crispy Spicy (Sichuan) Chicken and Stir Fried String Beans

Filipa Pato “3B” Blanc de Blance Brut Nature
Region: Bairrada, Portugal
Grape: Bical, Cercial, Maria Gomes

Why it works:
“This is a twist on the beloved ‘Champagne and fried chicken’ pairing that has soared to the top of every wine junkie’s favorites list,” Crotts says. “Due to the complexity of the Sichuan chili oil, this dish deserves a bit more attention when selecting the right bubbles. Gomes grapes offer some excitement that can still stand out while your palate is being zapped by the Sichuan peppercorns.” “Filipa Pato is rich and ripe, complementing the spice of the dish while also boasting bright minerality and fresh acidity that play on the crispy texture of the chicken,” Jones says.

Jason B James

Beijing Duck

Crane Creek Vineyards “Hellbender” 2023
Region: Upper Hiwassee Highlands, GA
Grape: Norton Cabernet Franc, Chambourcin

Why it works:
Beijing Duck is a Lunar New Year linchpin. The dish, consisting of succulent meat falling off of crispy skin alongside sweet bean sauce, cucumbers, and spring onions is thought to invite wealth and success into the upcoming year. “Duck classically craves to be paired with an elegant, savory red, and this wine is exactly that,” Crotts says. “The cabernet franc, which is present in this blend alongside two North American hybrid varieties, offers a slight edge of tannin to keep the structure in line while the norton and chambourcin create an uplifted savory, yet bright, graceful red fruit quality that perfectly complements duck.”

Jason B James