Shames Mountain near Terrace, located high up in an enormous Northern B.C. valley.Jeanine Philippe/Destination BC
At first glance, Shames Mountain ski resort is not much to look at.
With just one chairlift, one tow bar and some tiny resort buildings, the in-bounds area looks about as inspiring as a small ski resort in Ontario.
But take a short hike into the backcountry from the top of the resort, and it doesn’t take long before you round a corner and a dramatic panorama appears. Because while the Shames ski resort is small, it’s located high up in an enormous Northern B.C. valley that boasts alpine terrain that is shockingly easy to access. These big open slopes are easier to reach than off-piste areas at major resorts such as Revelstoke or Whistler.
Everything in the northern part of British Columbia feels vast. The valleys are wide, giving the views an expansive, endless feeling. The lack of crowds only adds to that. You’re free to take your time, there’s no rush to reach fresh snow before others ski out the powder runs.
Backcountry skiing was once a niche subculture of snow sports but it has exploded in recent years. That means once-quiet backcountry slopes have become crowded. Serenity and isolation can now be hard to find and there’s a real loss of the special feeling of isolation that can come with the outdoors.
This is not the case in Terrace and Smithers, northern B.C. towns that are far from any major population centre. Vancouver is 13 hour drive south, or just under a two hour flight.
Hudson Bay Mountain resort is small but has a variety of runs, quality grooming and off-piste terrain that could easily keep a family of novice to advanced skiers amused at the same time.Andrew Strain/Destination BC
These towns, a two-hour drive apart, are large enough to be viable ski destinations while small enough to invite backcountry ski enthusiasts searching for big-mountain terrain, easy access and limited crowds. I visited in February, 2023, and realized that I could have it all: easy, quick access to the slopes while also remaining relaxed, rather than the rush I can find myself in when scurrying into Banff early on a weekend morning in hopes of beating the crowds.
Throughout the trip, we would be skiing in spring-like weather, with warm temperatures and slushy snow but there was one positive: stable avalanche conditions meant a slide was unlikely.
In Smithers, I discovered the charming Hudson Bay Mountain resort. It is small, but it has a variety of runs, quality grooming and off-piste terrain that could easily keep a family of novice to advanced skiers amused at the same time. Snow conditions weren’t great, but the resort was still holding up well. On a normal year, this region boasts massive snowfalls because of its proximity to the coast.
The spot I was really excited about in Smithers was the Hankin Evelyn Recreation Area, a roughly 45-minute drive from town. This backcountry ski area isn’t quite like anything I’ve seen before.
Most backcountry ski areas are relatively informal. Sometimes you park at the side of a road or a trailhead parking lot before heading up mountains, figuring out the safest and most fun route to ski down. There are endless variations of how a day can go, and that can be a bit daunting for a newbie trying to make safe decisions. Getting back to the trailhead can also be an awkward slog, with flat terrain and densely populated forests to contend with near the end of your run.
Hankin Evelyn is the first backcountry ski area I’ve seen with ample signage – runs are numbered and designed to get you back to your car easily – and some areas are gladed, with a small number of trees cleared to make the skiing more manageable. Purists might balk at this approach, but skiers still have to earn their turns by climbing up the mountain. For the newer or intermediate backcountry skier, this setup is ideal.
People scope their lines in the Smithers backcountry, with Hudson Bay Mountain in the background.Mattias Fredriksson/Destination BC
On my guided tour, we stopped at a small mountain cabin where we snacked on charcuterie and admired wide open views before heading farther up into the alpine. Many of the more intense runs were too bare in this abysmal snow year, but we managed to find some fun skiing back into the forest, where we followed a meandering gully back out to our parked car.
The next day, we headed to Terrace, a much more industrial town of 19,600. Unlike Smithers, which had a neighbourly and walkable downtown core, Terrace was sprawling.
The valleys here were even more imposing, with the mountains closer and more in your face. That’s why the Shames Mountain Ski Area has such surprisingly easy access to incredible terrain.
On our single day of skiing in this region, we headed straight out of bounds and into the backcountry. A short hike led us to the top of a mountain ridge. All around us we could see other places to ski when we had more time – hours-long treks that would lead to long beautiful descents.
But we kept our day simple, doing a couple of laps on the closest mountain ridge. Conditions were uncharacteristically sunny, and we basked in beautiful views as we rode slushy spring-style snow back to the resort.
We skied back to the clubhouse, which looked more like a charming dive bar than a chalet. Shames operates as a co-op and its facilities aren’t as polished as what you’d find at a corporate ski resort, but we appreciated the folksy vibe. We found an open table on the patio and looked down at the magnificent valley around us. We felt alone in the best way possible.
I realized that this is how people in my own Interior B.C. town describe what skiing was like before the crowds started coming during the pandemic. In Northern B.C., that’s the experience you’re buying when you choose to ski here instead of the bigger resorts down south.
Hankin-Evelyn founder Brian Hall, left, talks with guests at Hankin Hut, one of several warming huts at Hankin Evelyn, a non-motorized backcountry destination near Smithers.Mattias Fredriksson/Destination BC
If you go:
Air Canada flies daily from Vancouver to airports in Smithers and Terrace, B.C.
Experts may want to bring their own skis or snowboards, but high-performance rentals are available at Local Supply Co. in Smithers. Both Hudson Bay Mountain and Shames offer ski rentals.
In Smithers, we enjoyed Smithers Brewing Co. for a drink and snack in a community-focused environment, while the Two Sisters Cafe was a great stop for a quick breakfast.
In Terrace, Don Diego’s Restaurant served up hearty Mexican fare with big servings, perfect fuel for your next day of backcountry skiing.
The Skeena River House near Terrace was a dreamy bed and breakfast, featuring a common room with a stunning view of the river that runs through the valley. Rooms from $140 a night.
The writer travelled as a guest of Destination BC. It did not review or approve this article before publication.
