Julie Van Rosendaal/The Globe and Mail
We grow more potatoes in Canada than any other vegetable. More than half are destined to be processed, mainly into French fries – a noble fate. Of course fries are most often eaten out, but they’re so simple (and affordable) to make at home, and can become the foundation for a snacky kind of meal.
We usually think of loaded baked potatoes, but a sheet pan of oven-roasted fries can withstand a larger load of tasty things. Fries are unquestionably made for dousing, dipping and dragging through gravy, ketchup and mayo (sometimes all at once), but considering potatoes pair well with just about everything, a batch of oven fries is a great way to use (and stretch) saucy leftovers, such as stews and curries, or any sauce you happen to love – from garlicky tahini to herby pesto or chimichurri, or use up the end of the yogurt or sour cream.
Proteins are always an option, from gooey cheese (while the oven is on) to a runny egg. And a stash of condiments will almost always be a source of inspiration – splatter on some chili oil, hoisin sauce, honey mustard or ranch dressing. If food is art, make your fries a Jackson Pollock painting.
Loaded Fries
You could, of course, start with a bag of frozen fries – there’s no shame in that – particularly the crinkle-cut kind, which are particularly well-suited to clingy sauces. Below is a recipe for a simple makhani (buttery, creamy tomato) sauce, but feel free to swap whatever you happen to have in the pantry or fridge.
Fries:
- 3-4 russet or Yukon Gold potatoes
- Canola oil, for cooking
- Garlic powder, chili powder, seasoning salt or barbecue spice blend (optional, to taste)
- Salt, to taste
Makhani sauce:
- Butter, for cooking
- A few cardamom pods
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 small garlic clove, finely crushed
- 1-2 tsp each chili powder, turmeric and garam masala
- 2 tsp dried fenugreek leaves
- 1 14 oz (398 ml) can crushed tomatoes or tomato purée
- 1/4 cup whipping cream, coconut milk or full-fat sour cream (or to taste)
- Cheese curds
- Chili oil (optional)
- Chopped green onions and/or chives and/or cilantro
Cut the potatoes into evenly sized sticks or wedges (about 1/3-inch thick) and if you have time, soak them in a bowl of cold water for 20 minutes or so. While you do, preheat the oven to 425 F.
When the oven is hot, drizzle a heavy-rimmed baking sheet with oil and put it inside to heat up. (This is an optional step – the combination of hot pan and hot oil will help keep the fries from sticking, but it’s okay to skip if it makes you nervous.) Drain the potato sticks and pat them dry with a tea towel or paper towels, then toss in a drizzle of oil to coat. Sprinkle with salt, garlic powder or any other spices you’d like.
Carefully remove the pan from the oven, spread out the fries in a single layer and return to the oven for about 20 minutes. Pull them out and toss the fries around a bit, then return to the oven for another 10-20 minutes, or until turning golden. Scatter with cheese curds and return to the oven for another five minutes, or until the curds start to melt.
Meanwhile, make the sauce: Heat a tablespoon or so of oil, butter or ghee in a saucepan and heat the cardamom and cinnamon stick until they start to sizzle. Add the garlic and cook for another minute, then add the turmeric, garam masala, tomatoes and cream. Cook, stirring, until heated through. Remove the cardamom pods and cinnamon stick.
Drizzle the sauce over the fries, and add a drizzle of chili oil, green onions, cilantro, or whatever else you can think of. Serve immediately.
Serves about four.
