Policoro is one of Italy’s best-kept seaside secrets | Canada Voices

Although Italy is the fourth most visited country in the world, the southern Italian region of Basilicata remains largely unexplored, even by Italians. Unlike its vacation hotspot neighbour Puglia to the east, or Campania’s bucket-list stops such as Amalfi and Pompeii to the west, Basilicata is quite easy to bypass. Even for me, a self-proclaimed Italophile with my roots firmly planted in Calabria (the region just below), this was my first time in the unsung territory.

A late fall visit, during which I spent some exceptionally luminous days soaking up the last rays of la dolce vita, turned out to be part and parcel of my winter survival kit this year. Spring, with Easter processions, food fairs and cultural events, is also an excellent time to visit.

If any spot in Basilicata is on the beaten path, it’s Matera, citta’ dei sassi (city of stones), the oldest inhabited city in Europe, third in the world, which dates back at least 9,000 years to the Paleolithic Age. Even though its storied sassi and park of Rupestrian churches were recognized by UNESCO in 1993, it was only after Matera held the 2019 European Capital of Culture title that tourists noticed it, making it a popular destination in southern Italy.

However, it is the charming seaside town of Policoro, perched on the Ionian Sea in the heart of the Gulf of Taranto, that lingers most fondly in my memories. One of the beauties of travel is that unexpected jewel you uncover, the place you mistook as a pitstop on the way to the main attraction.

We arrived in Policoro late on a Friday evening after a transatlantic flight to Rome and a seven-hour bus ride. I was beginning to understand how Basilicata has kept its low profile; the region doesn’t have an international airport.

The next morning, I drew back the drapes in my room to see where I landed. I was thrilled to discover that I had a sizable terrace where I could drink my coffee under the glorious sun while taking in the verdant views and breathing in that inimitable sea air. I was ready for a busy day of exploring.

Policoro is a relatively young municipality of 18,000 inhabitants, the third largest in the region. The city sits on the site of the ancient Greek city Heraclea founded in 433 BC, built near the earlier Greek settlement of Siris.

Despite the layers of history that followed its deep Magna Graecia influence, Policoro (which means “old village”) only became an autonomous city in the 1960s. There are historical remnants that trace its ancient past, such as the ruins in the nearby archeological area and the National Archaeological Museum of Siritide, but a stroll down its main strip, Via Siris, offers a glimpse into its past while blending modern amenities with historic charm. The main Piazza Eraclea, named after the famous Battle of Heraclea between the Greek army and the Romans in 280 BC, is the heart of the city, a lively gathering place for both locals and visitors to relax, meet, meander leisurely and pop into family-owned shops and cafes and indulge in a gelato.

More dolce vita ensues with a prelunch aperitivo at Come Una Volta trattoria, where we sampled local salumi and cheeses such as caciocavallo, as well as local favourite crusco, a sweet pepper that is sun-dried then fried to crunchy perfection.

As we sat outside sipping on our Aperol spritz (a Venetian tradition that has caught on even in the south), businessman Rocco LaRocca pointed to the peaks of mountains, indicating that we were a stone’s throw from the Pollino National Park, the largest park in southern Italy renowned for its stunning natural landscapes and diverse flora and fauna. “It spans two regions and on the other side you’re already in Calabria,” he said. A sudden wave of nostalgia hit me as I was so close to my roots … Next time.

An impromptu highlight of our tour that day was a boat tour to la piccola Venezia del sud (the small Venice of the south). I observed in awe as we sailed under bridges and past a resort called Marinagri, which stretched over three kilometres of coastline dotted with a variety of holiday and year-round homes built on islands and peninsulas. It looked a bit like a mini paradise on the sea, where multi-level villas had private boat docks and gardens with panoramic terraces overlooking the sea and private beaches.

That mid-November sail on the crystal-clear waters of the Ionian Sea was nothing short of spectacular. But what struck me most about the beauty of Basilicata was the intense sunlight that pervaded the sky no matter where I was. Then I remembered how the ancient name for the Basilicata region was La Lucania; in fact locals still refer to themselves, their traditions and local dishes as Lucani. The origin of the name varies, but I believe the Latin version (luc), meaning light or shining, sums up the region best: It is the land of light.

If you go

Springtime in Policoro includes traditional Easter processions, regional food fairs and cultural events celebrating Lucanian heritage. Enjoy seasonal specialties such as strawberries, fava beans, artichokes, fresh seafood and Pecorino di Filiano cheese. Pair your meals with Aglianico del Vulture, the region’s bold red wine. Restaurants and bars open at the beach in April. It is the perfect time for walks along the shore or a first dip in the sea. The number of tourists in the summer months of July and August swells up, bringing a multitude of Italian families to Policoro for beach vacations.

Policoro is a seven-hour drive from Rome but catching a connecting flight to Bari or Brindisi in nearby Puglia shortens the journey. Rent a car at these smaller airports and this coastal gem is a little more than an hour away.

A stay at the four-star Hotel San Vincenzo Resort starts at €120. This former convent-turned-hotel is 300 metres from the sea. Guests will find a chapel on the lower level, a swimming pool and tennis courts surrounded by lush grounds.

A stay at the five-star Marinagri Greenblu Hotel starts at €160. For spa lovers, the hotel has a bio-sauna, Finnish sauna, Turkish bath and a hot tub amidst the calm of the Ionian Sea. For non-hotel guests, spa access is €30 a person for 90 minutes.

Rent a sailboat at Marinagri from one of the providers at the marina, enjoy an aperitivo off the coast at sunset with your own skipper and take in the incredible Ionian Sea views. Rentals start at around €300 for half a day.

The nearby Policoro Herakleia Oasis is a wildlife reserve offering scenic walks, birdwatching and opportunities to see rescued sea turtles. Spring is especially vibrant with migrating birds and fresh greenery.

The writer was a guest of Hotel San Vincenzo Resort. It did not review or approve the story before publication.