The lobby at Casa Pestagua, a hotel converted from a 17th-century colonial mansion, was refurbished as part of a US$15-million hotel-wide renovation.KIKO KAIRUZ/Supplied
When my wife and I were planning our family trip to Colombia, one of my 10-year-old son’s most pressing concerns was whether the country would have ice cream. “Of course,” I said with confidence, but secretly without any certainty.
So, it was a great relief when, after a five-hour flight to Cartagena, an hour and a half at customs and a 30-minute taxi ride to our hotel, the first thing staff at Casa Pestagua did was bring Louis a bowl of the most delicious ice cream he’s ever had. They handed my wife and I a refreshing drink of watermelon, lime, cucumber and mint.
This soft landing was an indication that Casa Pestagua would be our place of respite while exploring one of South America’s oldest settler cities – like the “home” referred to in its name.
Cartagena, a visually stunning city brimming with pedestrian (and, at night, equestrian) activity, can sometimes be overwhelming. In the middle of the day, it can get very hot, too. So a relaxing place to unwind and cool down is crucial.
Why you should visit
Cartagena is a colourful, visually stunning city.KIKO KAIRUZ/Supplied
Casa Pestagua, a hotel converted from an 17th-century colonial mansion, underwent a US$15-million renovation that added five suites to this Relais & Chateau property – for a total of 16 – and refurbished the hotel’s lobby, bar and restaurant. (If you’re craving a city and beach holiday, consider its newer sister property Acasi Private Beach, offering six thatch-roofed cabana bungalows on the white sands of Baru Island, a 45-minute boat ride away.)
Cartagena, a city settled by the Spanish 600 years ago, has hardly changed over the centuries. Most buildings are narrow and small, but when you’re in Casa Pestagua it doesn’t feel that way, because there’s always a luxurious amount of space above you: Rooms have superhigh ceilings and there are plenty of open-air common areas. The small number of suites means it’s usually quiet, too.
The restaurant is the central feature and heartbeat of the hotel.KIKO KAIRUZ/Supplied
The outdoor space at AniMare restaurant, which is the central feature and heartbeat of the hotel, is flanked by tall palm trees that draw your eyes up toward the sky. The included breakfast starts with coffee from Buenavista, a city in central Colombia. On our first morning, I ordered the “Cartagena frites” plate – the restaurant’s five-star version of various street foods – featuring an egg-filled arepa, a stuffed cassava patty, a beef empanada and a corn fritter. It was so filling that I probably could’ve gone the rest of the day without eating. But then I would’ve missed out on dinner, when the lights that encircle the palms gently illuminate the space and local musicians entertain while you dine.
The pool is surrounded by trees that, almost as if by design, occasionally drop pink flowers into the water. As you cool down, you can look up toward the restored balconies and Moorish arches, and imagine the hotel is your very own mansion.
Room for improvement
One side effect of the building’s constrained layout is that the doors of a couple of ground-floor rooms, including ours, open up directly facing the restaurant’s outdoor seating. Although some small plants stand in between, emerging from the room during mealtimes made me feel like more of a spectacle than I’d prefer – especially when I was in swimming trunks on my way to the pool.
Some of the ground-floor rooms open out directly onto the restaurant.KIKO KAIRUZ/Supplied
Since you’re in the neighbourhood
The hotel offers bicycles to guests, and I borrowed one to quickly explore the entire area – including atop the city’s walls, from which you can look out at the Caribbean. Just down the street from the hotel is Plaza de Santo Domingo. In this public square you can find craftspeople selling jewellery, or buy sliced mango and pineapple on a stick. In the evenings, horse-drawn carriages taxi tourists from here to other parts of the city.
The entire area within the walls – 11 kilometres in circumference – is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and there are too many historic gems to list here. One evening after dark we passed by the the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, a stunning dome-topped structure completed in 1612, and stopped to watch a group of Colombian dancers energetically perform to drums.
The pool is surrounded by trees that, almost as if by design, occasionally drop pink flowers into the water.KIKO KAIRUZ/Supplied
The take-away
To lean on a trite expression, mi casa es su casa really does capture the friendly, attentive vibe at Casa Pestagua. The first night of our stay happened to coincide with my wife’s birthday – something that I hadn’t shared with anyone. And yet, at the end of our dinner that night, as we were about to leave, the waiter told us to wait just a moment. Then out came a group of staff with a cake and tasteful balloon arrangement. We’re still unsure whether they overheard us talking about my wife’s special day, or saw her birthdate while photocopying her passport, but that extra effort will always be remembered, and has made for a great story.
Casa Pestagua is a 16-room Relais & Chateaux property within the original walled part of Cartagena. Acasi Private Beach offers bungalows on nearby Baru Island. Rooms at both locations from $800 during high season, includes breakfast. casapestagua.com
The writer received a media rate at Casa Pestagua. It did not review or approve the story before publication.
