There are arguments about which dish is most representative of St. Lucia. As an island in the Caribbean, seafood is a must. Although green figs and saltfish is the official national dish, Natalie Compton believes conch in sauce souskaye should also be in the running. It’s why she knew she had to include the recipe in her debut cookbook, Kwéyòl / Creole, co-authored by the James Beard Award-winning writer Osayi Endolyn. “This dish celebrates our beautiful seafood and the bright, earthy souskaye sauce is a fantastic way to enjoy conch,” she says.
For those who have never prepared conch — the giant sea snail with a spiral shell that doubles as a trumpet — Compton likes to treat the ingredient similar to octopus. “Conch is like a giant clam with the texture of an octopus,” she explains. “Be patient with it because it is worth it.”
To make the souskaye, Compton’s biggest tip is seasoning in layers and tasting as you go. “Salt brings out the sweetness of the conch and also seasons every element as they come into play,” she says. “Don’t [just] add salt at the end.” And if you truly can’t get your hands on conch at the fish monger, calamari or shrimp are also excellent substitutes.
“Caribbean cuisine is having a moment and I am happy to document this,” Compton says. “I [want to introduce] readers to the Caribbean through my food and [want them] to have fun with all the flavors they may or may not have experienced.”
1 pound conch meat (or 1 pound calamari or 1½ pounds U10-size shrimp, peeled and deveined)
1 red bell pepper, minced
½ cup roughly chopped scallions
1 tablespoon red chile flakes
2 teaspoons minced celery
2 teaspoons marjoram leaves
1 teaspoon peeled and grated ginger
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
3 limes, zested and juiced
2 teaspoons chopped flat-leaf parsley
1 teaspoon Baron West Indian Hot Sauce
Step 1: Prepare the conch. In a large stockpot, add the conch meat. Cover with water by about 6 inches. Bring to a boil, then reduce to medium heat and simmer for about 3 hours. To check for doneness, use a paring knife to make an incision through the thickest part of the conch. The conch is ready when the meat is tender and there is little resistance.
Step 2: Use a slotted spoon to transfer it to a bowl and allow it to cool. Once the conch has cooled, cut into 1-inch pieces and set aside. (If using calamari or shrimp, bring a large stockpot of water to boil, then poach for 2 minutes. Use a slotted spoon to remove the calamari or shrimp and set aside.)
Step 3: For the souskaye: Place a medium saute pan over low heat. Warm the coconut oil, and then add the red bell pepper, scallion, red chile flakes, garlic, celery, thyme, marjoram, and ginger. Saute and stir just long enough to combine the ingredients, about 1 minute.
Step 4: Season with the salt, add the white wine vinegar, and stir to combine. Remove from the heat. Add the conch (or calamari or shrimp), then add the lime zest and juice, parsley, and hot sauce. Return the mixture to low heat and gently warm through for 1 minute.
Step 5: To serve: Enjoy right away with the dasheen (taro) chips.
Reprinted with permission from Kwéyòl / Creole: Recipes, Stories, and Tings from a St. Lucian Chef’s Journey by Nina Compton with Osayi Endolyn copyright © 2025. Photographs by Brittany Conerly and L. Kasimu Harris. Illustrations by Fiona Compton. Published by Clarkson Potter, a division of Penguin Random House, LLC.
Food photography copyright © 2025 Brittany Conerly
