Group photo of Mouton Cadet’s winemaking team, Jerome Aguirre, director of winemaking at Baron Philippe de Rothschild, is front row, third from leftSupplied
A decline in red wine consumption and falling demand for wines from Bordeaux has winemakers in the famous region looking to add value to their labels.
For Baron Philippe de Rothschild’s bestselling brand, Mouton Cadet, that means promoting the Fair for Life certification, earned for their commitment to human rights, sustainable agricultural practices and local community development.
“If we want to change the dusty image of Bordeaux, we need to work together,” says Véronique Hombroek, who has been the executive director for branded wines at Baron Philippe de Rothschild since January, 2018.
Established in 1930, Mouton Cadet was developed as a mainstream brand to sell red wines from Bordeaux, using stocks that didn’t make the cut for the Rothschild family’s Châteaux Mouton Rothschild. (The family added two additional Pauillac properties, Château d’Armailhac in 1933 and Château Clerc Milon in 1970.)
Canada was one of the original export markets for Mouton Cadet, which is now distributed in more than 100 countries worldwide. Hombroek says the label holds an 11.9-per-cent share of Bordeaux wine sales in this country.
Canada is the second country (after France) where the company is marketing the fair-trade certification earned in 2024 on the label of Mouton Cadet Red. The company’s research says one in three Canadian consumers are willing to pay more for a wine with a certification.
Administered by the Ecocert Group, Fair for Life assesses a company’s supply chain to ensure ethical and sustainable practices, including working conditions, biodiversity and trade relations. “It’s about more than wine; it’s a philosophy and a commitment that we are working with growers to protect our future,” Hombroek explains. “It’s important that we have this certification to reassure the consumer about our commitment to preserving the uniqueness of Bordeaux.”
Portrait of Véronique Hombroek, executive director for branded wines at Baron Philippe de Rothschild since January, 2018.Supplied
Mouton Cadet buys grapes from more than 150 growers across the Bordeaux region who work on long-term contracts that offer stability at a time when oversupply is driving grape prices down, yet the cost of farming continues to increase. The company works with farmers to improve the quality of their crops while keeping their vineyard profitable.
Wine production in Bordeaux fell to its lowest level since 1991 owing to frost and a rainy growing season, which reduced the size of the crop, and strategic cuts by winemakers reacting to declining global demand. The 3.3 million hectolitres of wine produced in the 2024 vintage represents a 14-per-cent drop from 2023 volumes and roughly half of the wine produced in 2004, according to the region’s wine association, CIVB.
“Winemaking isn’t only about techniques, it’s a sensibility,” says Jerome Aguirre, director of winemaking at Baron Philippe de Rothschild. “We are stronger because of our links between our people, the environment and our ethics.” That connection helps to foster innovation and quality in the range of wines they produce.
Mouton Cadet’s red blend represents more than 60 per cent of its production. The core range also includes a white and rosé, while premium labels reflect smaller-production wines including ones from specific appellations, such as Saint- Émilion, Margaux and Pauillac. The latest edition is a trio of organic and vegan wines – a rosé, a white and a red – each named for a great-grandchild of founder Baron Philippe de Rothschild.
Mouton Cadet Red 2022 is one of the featured recommendations this week, alongside four other international wines offering distinctive regional styles that are suited to summertime sipping.
Azevedo Loureiro Alvarinho 2024 (Portugal), $13.95
Rating: 88
Quinta de Azevedo is part of the Sogrape family of Portuguese wineries. This focused and fruity Vinho Verde is a blend of 70 per cent loureiro with 30 per cent alvarinho, which combine to offer a pleasing mix of lime, lemon and peach flavours. It’s refreshing with a crowd-pleasing rounded texture that carries through to a lingering finish. Great value. This has 12 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available in Ontario.
Borsao Tinto Garnacha 2022 (Spain), $13
Rating: 87
Borsao offers a bold and juicy red wine by blending garnacha (grenache) with tempranillo and cabernet sauvignon. It’s hard to miss the contribution from the oak barrels, which deliver sweet vanilla and cocoa flavours that wash over the core of ripe cherry and plum notes. A dry but modern, crowd-pleasing style that’s ready to drink. This has 15 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $15.99 in British Columbia, $13.60 in Quebec, $14.50 in New Brunswick, $16.98 in Newfoundland.
Croft Twist British Aperitif (Spain), $12.95
Rating: 88
Sherry houses continue to innovate to find new audiences for their distinctive fortified wines. Newly released at the LCBO, Croft Twist is a spritz based on pale cream sherry blended with elderflower, lemon and mint cordial. Designed to be served over ice in a wine glass, this low-alcohol ready-made cocktail can be garnished with mint or basil to enhance its summery flavour. This has 5.5. per cent ABV and 66 g/lire r.s. Drink now. Available in Ontario.
Mouton Cadet Bordeaux Red 2022 (France), $17.75
Rating: 89
The bestselling Bordeaux label in Canada, Mouton Cadet is a blend of mostly merlot with 10 per cent cabernet sauvignon and 3 per cent cabernet franc. The result is a fresh and elegant red that offers a mix of ripe red and dark fruit with some spice and earthy notes. Enjoyable on its own or with a meal, this is a safe bet to have on hand for any occasion. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2027. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia and Manitoba, various prices in Alberta and Saskatchewan, $18.25 in Quebec, $24 in New Brunswick, $20.13 in Nova Scotia, $21.49 in Prince Edward Island.
Jip Jip Rocks Shiraz/Cabernet 2022 (Australia), $17.95
Rating: 90
This expressive shiraz and cabernet sauvignon blend is produced by Bryson Wines, a family-owned winery based in Padthaway, South Australia. Made in a dry and full-bodied style, this offers a core of dark fruit with cedar, herbal and savoury notes. It’s nicely balanced and approachable now, with the structure and intensity to develop more complexity in the cellar. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, $23.98 in Newfoundland.
