Canadian wineries are mainly following the trend for lighter styles with citrus and apple flavours.Charles Platiau/Reuters
Finding replacements for rich and buttery chardonnay from California has become a quixotic quest as many producers around the world have put their chardonnays on a weight loss regime, however, some continue to hit the sweet spot.
Canadian wineries are largely following the fashion for lighter styles with invigorating citrus and apple flavours on display, rather than comforting tropical and toasty expressions with mouth-filling character. The current vogue is for tart and taut chardonnays with marked acidity. Old school oaky chardonnays are in short supply.
Three richer, riper chardonnays have stood out recently. Two are flagship releases from wineries in British Columbia and Ontario, while the third is an affordable label from Chile with an easy-going fruity character.
Fort Berens Chardonnay Reserve 2023 (Canada), $34.99
Rating: 92
A single vineyard chardonnay from Fort Berens’ Dry Creek Vineyard in Lillooet, this is a rich and creamy expression with satisfying ripe fruit and oak-derived toast and spice notes. There’s attractive weight, texture and freshness that make this round and flavourful with good acidity. This has 13 per cent ABV and 3.4 g/litre r.s. Drink now-2029. Available direct, fortberens.ca
Fort Berens White Gold Reserve ChardSupplied
Inniskillin Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 2022 (Canada), $32.95
Rating: 91
Chardonnay continues to be a strong suit for Inniskillin’s historic Niagara-on-the-Lake vineyard, producing rich and refreshing white wines like the recently released 2022 vintage. The mix of citrus, apple and peach flavours gain interest from toasty and spicy notes and a creamy texture that carries through to a refreshing finish. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now-2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $31.83 direct, winerack.com, $36.99 in Prince Edward Island.
NV INN Montague Vineyard Chardonnay 750mL BottleSupplied
Santa Rita 120 Reserva Especial Chardonnay 2023 (Chile), $12.95
Rating: 88
While this value-priced Chilean chardonnay doesn’t deliver bold oak or a creamy character, it does offer loads of sweet and ripe fruit (apple, pineapple, melon) as part of its juicy and flavourful profile. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at that above price in Ontario ($10.95 until Sept. 14), various prices in Alberta.
Santa Rita 120 Reserve ChardonnaySupplied
