It can be difficult for wines made from less-common grape varieties to break through to consumers who opt for the cabernets and pinot noirs they know well.Carlo Prearo/Getty Images
The wine industry offers consumers a bewildering range of different flavours, styles and provenances. There are always wines that offer fresh excitement to discover, apart from international favourites, such as cabernet sauvignon, merlot and pinot noir.
Lesser-known grape varieties are receiving renewed consideration from consumers and growers. Likewise, wines from unexpected places are gaining recognition. Toronto restaurant Alo will showcase the flavours of the Maltese Islands including local wines made with native grapes – gellewza (red) and girgentina (white) – as well as international varieties at a special event next month.
Malta is perhaps an extreme case as its tiny industry produces 1.5 million bottles each year, which makes for limited export opportunities. Other regions around the world are more motivated to share their wines with the world.
At the front of that line, Italy is home to a treasure trove of indigenous grape varieties that produce exciting and distinctive regional wines. Sangiovese, nebbiolo and glera, the white grape used to make prosecco, are widely celebrated, but lesser-known varieties, including corvina, corvinone, rondinella and molinara in Valpolicella or barbera and dolcetto in Piedmont, are equally interesting.
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The challenge is breaking through to consumers who don’t know what they want. It’s easier to select crowd-pleasing cabernets or juicy pinot noirs from recognized producers and regions rather than taking a risk on the unknown.
It’s convenient to distill the world of wine down to bestselling brands, regions and grapes, but that could be one of the reasons why consumption is declining. It’s easy to lose appreciation for even the highest-quality wines through repeated exposure. Even the best bottle of cabernet can be perceived as common.
There’s hope that less-popular wines, including the six red wines recommended this week, can bring some buzz back to the wine scene. They offer a taste of the unexpected and, in the best cases, remind us of wine’s extraordinary ability to offer a sensory experience produced by nature and human intervention, innovation and ingenuity.
Brigaldara Valpolicella Ripasso Superiore 2022 (Italy), $22.95
Rating: 90
The Cesari family has owned the Brigaldara estate since 1928, farming 47 hectares of vineyards on the 120-hectare property. Amarone, a red wine which is produced from local grapes that are harvested and dried before vinification, is a major focus of the winery. This fragrant and complex ripasso uses the leftover grape skins and seeds from Amarone to boost the flavour and body of a red wine made from freshly harvested grapes. The second fermentation contributes to the mix of dried berry and cherry flavours with spice and incense notes. This has 14.5 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario, various prices in Alberta, $23.90 in Quebec.
Briccotondo Piemonte Barbera Organic 2023 (Italy), $19.60
Rating: 90
Produced by Fontanafredda, Briccotondo is a brand that features commercial and juicy expressions of traditional Piedmont grape varieties. This organically grown barbera captures the juicy and bright character that defines the variety, with charming cherry and berry fruit with some spice, walnut and citrus notes. This has 13 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $21.49 in Saskatchewan, $22.08 in Nova Scotia.
Gérard Bertrand An 1152 Heritage Cahors Malbec 2021 (France), $21.95
Rating: 91
Gérard Bertrand expanded his winemaking focus from the south of France into the Cahors region with the purchase of Domaine de Cause in 2022. This vibrant red wine shows a different side of malbec compared with the concentrated ripe character common to examples from Argentina. Expect bright and ripe flavours with appealing structure and grip from youthful tannins. This serves up Cahors’s classic refinement-meets-rusticity personality. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $34.99 in British Columbia, various prices in Alberta, $29.73 in Nova Scotia, $29.99 in Newfoundland.
Henry of Pelham Speck Family Reserve Baco Noir 2023 (Canada), $27.95
Rating: 91
The Speck Family Reserve label represents top-quality wines, typically produced from Henry of Pelham’s oldest vineyards, with all possible care and attention. American oak barrels play a starring role here, adding depth and texture to a concentrated red wine that suggests a mix of jammy and tart dark fruit, espresso bean and cracked pepper notes. It’s a robust red with juicy acidity and soft tannins. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 9 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario ($24.95 until Sept. 14), $24.95 direct, henryofpelham.com, various prices in Alberta.
Moon Curser Touriga Nacional 2022 (Canada), $46.99
Rating: 91
A rare example of touriga nacional grown outside of Portugal, this unusual red is consistently one of Moon Curser’s most memorable wines from the southern Okanagan. Made in a ripe and savoury style, this offers a mix of dried and fresh dark fruit with tobacco, herbal and black olive notes. This has 14.2 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price direct, mooncurser.com, various prices in British Columbia.
Secret del Priorat 2022 (Spain), $24.95
meritxell lombarte/Supplied
Rating: 90
The satisfying grenache and carignan blend comes from the Torres family’s winery in Priorat. The wine’s firm tannins and bright acidity add structure and freshness to the sweet core of red fruit. A mix of stony and herbal (eucalyptus) notes contribute complexity to a wine that’s a winning match for all sorts of meals. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $27.99 in Manitoba, $25.20 in Quebec.
