skynesher/iStockPhoto / Getty Images
In the lead-up to Thanksgiving, you’re bound to see promotions suggesting perfect wines to pair with turkey. While I believe that certain wines and flavours work beautifully together, too much is made of so-called perfect matches. Any ideal pairing is a matter of personal taste rather than a universal truth.
Is champagne the classic match for oysters? Sensory research suggests that vintage sparkling wine and European oysters are meant for each other because they taste better together. A 2020 study in Scientific Reports points to a synergy the pairing creates “at the umami receptor, rendering eggs-bacon and cheese-ham delicious companions.” (Umami is the fifth basic taste, described as savoury and rich, commonly found in dried mushrooms, ripe tomatoes or soy sauce.)
Of course, if you would not, could not eat oysters or drink champagne – here, there or anywhere – no amount of umami sensation is bound to change your mind.
That’s why when choosing wine for Thanksgiving or any meaningful dinner party you should focus on wines you or your loved ones are likely to enjoy. Whether that’s red, white, sparkling or rosé, one of the most important variables to consider is your own taste.
As I consider what to serve at family festivities this month, I’m narrowing my focus on Canadian selections like these worthwhile bottles that lean into the meaning behind the meal, celebrating the harvest season.
Blomidon Cuvée L’Acadie, $36.68
Rating: 90
This crisp and refreshing sparkling wine offers a scintillating taste of Nova Scotia. The base wine is a blend of l’acadie wines from different vintages with 16 months aging after secondary fermentation in the bottle. The bright and satisfying style features appealing toasty with zesty citrus and pear notes, which makes it a terrific aperitif or meal companion. This has 11 per cent ABV and 7.6 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available direct blomidonwine.ca.
Burrowing Owl Chardonnay 2023, $35
Rating: 89
Burrowing Owl’s robust and flavourful red wines are widely celebrated, but white wine lovers are sure to appreciate the bold and fruity character of this full-bodied chardonnay. The 2023 vintage blends grapes grown in Oliver and Osoyoos to maintain an established house style that leans toward California opulence rather than Burgundy focus, offering an alluring mix of tropical fruit with butter and baking spice accents. This has 13.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available direct, burrowingowlwine.ca.
Cave Spring Pinot Gris 2024, $19.95
Rating: 89
The new vintage of Cave Spring’s pinot gris sports the West Niagara regional appellation on its label, identifying that the grapes used were grown in the winery’s vineyards in Beamsville and Lincoln. In the bottle, you’ll find an interesting and enjoyable expression of pinot gris. Unlike light and bright pinot grigios, it’s a wine with structure and flavours suggesting a mix of tree fruit and honey. This is ripe and refreshing with a rounded texture that makes it an enjoyable all-round, all-season white. This has 12 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario or direct, cavespring.ca, various prices in Alberta.
Corcelettes Talus 2021, $54.90
Rating: 92
Operated by the Baessler family since 2011, Corcelettes is the largest estate-wine producer in British Columbia’s Similkameen Valley. Named for the valley’s volcanic slopes, Talus is the winery’s top-of-the-line red. A blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot in the 2021 vintage, this is a robust wine with concentrated dark fruit, spice and herbal flavours that’s just entering its prime drinking window. This has 14.2 per cent ABV and 1.9 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2033. Available direct, corceletteswine.ca.
Hillside Montage 2022, $55
Rating: 90
Montage is a new addition to Hillside’s range of wines made in Naramata, B.C. It’s developed as a sibling to the flagship red wine Mosaic, offering a blend of whichever red wine varieties that work best together. The inaugural blend includes merlot grapes purchased from Tightrope Winery, with cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon from Hillside’s own vineyards. The resulting red is firm and focused with a core of dark fruit flavours (cherry, cassis), an elegant structure and persistent finish. Decant for best enjoyment. This has 13 per cent ABV. Drink now to 2032. Available direct, hillsidewinery.ca.
Leaning Post Chardonnay 2023, $32.95
Rating: 90
Made with grapes grown in Grimsby and Stoney Creek on the western edge of Niagara’s viticultural region, Leaning Post’s ripe expression of barrel-fermented chardonnay offers juicy peach and tropical notes as part of its creamy and rich character. A generous white wine with structure and balancing acidity that’s ready to drink. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2033. Available at the above price in Ontario or $30.20 direct, leaningpostwines.com, $41.99 in Newfoundland.
Stonebridge Brut Rose Traditional Method 2021, $48
Rating: 92
Faik Turkmen owns and operates Stonebridge and Lailey Vineyard wineries in Niagara-on-the-Lake, working with consultants Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling to produce a stylish range of red, white and sparkling wines. Stonebridge Brut Rose is a chardonnay-based sparkling wine that gets its subtle salmon-pink hue from a small portion of zweigelt. The style shows pure citrusy fruit and gentle texture that’s fresh and focused. Vegan friendly. Drink now to 2029. Available direct, stonebridgewines.com.
Trius Red 2023, $27.95
Rating: 90
First introduced in the 1990s by Hillebrand Estate Winery in Niagara-on-the-Lake, Trius’s soaring popularity led to a name change for the property in 2012. Trius Red continues to be one of the pillars of the portfolio. The 2023 vintage is rich and structured medium-bodied red that shows a pleasing mix of concentrated savoury and dark fruit flavours from a blend of merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. The herbal, spicy and juicy character show classic cool climate character that’s more in line with Bordeaux than California. This has 12.5 per cent ABV and 3 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2030. Available at the above price in Ontario ($24.95 until Oct. 12), $26 direct, shop.triuswines.com, various prices in Alberta, $26.99 in Manitoba.
