Summerhill has a brand-new addition, and it’s not your usual neighbourhood haunt. Seahorse, from veteran restaurateur Simon Bauer (Mercer Street Grill, among others), combines polished hospitality with a youthful energy. His partners include Richard Renaud (Speducci Mercatto, Piano Piano) and Eamon Clark, son of Rodney from the city’s legendary Rodney’s Oyster House. In the kitchen, the former second-in-command at Quetzal, Federico Garcia is clearly ready to take the lead, and it shows.
On its first Saturday night, the restaurant was already buzzing. The space is anchored by a striking white stone bar that stretches nearly the full length of the room, wide enough to recall the bars at renowned oyster houses — a modern nod, perhaps, to Boston’s iconic Union Oyster House.
The crowd set the tone. Younger couples mixed in with some locals rather than the usual middle-aged Summerhill diners. It felt less like the traditional neighbourhood scene and more like SoHo in New York. The soundtrack was perfectly tuned for a Saturday night, adding to the sense that this pocket of the city is shifting fast. Between Manita, which is jammed open to close, the soon-to-open Mamakas, and now Seahorse, Summerhill is quickly becoming one of Toronto’s hottest dining areas.
Details matter: a whimsical “Hats & Caps” signed cubby greets you at the door, the menus are oversized and playful, and Bower himself works the room, chatting warmly with guests. The vibe is young, happy, and contagious.
Starters that stun
The menu is tight but thoughtful, divided into appetizers, salads, mains, “ice boxes” (their take on seafood towers served horizontally on silver trays), and desserts. We started with:
• Kopache tuna tartare – razor-thin slices that would make a sushi master proud, dressed in a bright yuzu-vinegar sauce, paired with a delicate rémoulade and toasted bread.
• Runner beans – shockingly the star. Charred with perfect sear marks, dotted with capers and balsamic. Who knew runner beans could steal the show?
• Guinness on Nitro – even the beer got an upgrade. Their new system adds a touch of sweetness, turning an everyday pint into something memorable.
Mains with muscle
For mains, we split:
• Seafood pasta ($34) – handmade noodles prepared daily with perfectly cooked shrimp, executed with precision.
• Bouillabaisse/seafood boil hybrid ($69) – a generous mix of crab, tiger shrimp, mussels, potatoes, and corn. It leaned more toward a boil than traditional bouillabaisse, possibly because of the corn and potatoes, but was rich, aromatic, and deeply satisfying.
Both dishes were excellent, but if forced to pick, the bouillabaisse hybrid edged out for its complexity and sheer indulgence.
Ice boxes & dessert
The ice boxes, which are like a seafood tower on a baking tray, range from $45–$120 and are designed for sharing. They are excellent. I’m less of a seafood tower kind of guy, but I know many people love this form of dining, and if you’re one of them, you will not be disappointed. We finished with the corn cake – a huge, unapologetically corny dessert that lived up to its promise. It was a generous portion and really delicious.
The verdict
With seafood sourced from Oroshi Market, a chef from one of the cities newly minted Michelin’s who is clearly ready to shine and Clark with Bower handling the rest, Seahorse is already hitting high notes. Dinner for two with drinks came in under $200 — not cheap, but for seafood of this quality, who can blame them.
Seahorse is more than a neighbourhood restaurant; it’s a destination, and another sign that Summerhill is transforming into Noblos, north of Bloor’s new Ossington.
