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You are at:Home » The new Dior debuts, plus more standout moments from Paris Fashion Week | Canada Voices
Lifestyle

The new Dior debuts, plus more standout moments from Paris Fashion Week | Canada Voices

3 October 20255 Mins Read

Open this photo in gallery:

A giant tiered cake with an inflatable cherry showcased Christian Louboutin’s iconic Ballerina Ultima design at Paris Fashion Week.Christian Louboutin/Supplied

Dior renaissance

By day three, Paris Fashion Week could hold its breath no longer. Creative director Jonathan Anderson finally made his long-awaited debut for Dior, and the jury erupted in a collective cheer of approval.

The show was held at Jardin des Tuileries in a structure that was purpose-built for the moment. Scenographers Luca Guadagnino and Stefano Baisi created a central inverted pyramid with screens on all sides. A short film that spliced together archival footage from the label’s past shows with horror film clips asked, “Do you dare enter the house of Dior?”

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A Dior dress at Paris Fashion Week.Alessandro Lucioni/Dior/Supplied

It was a nostalgic reflection on Dior’s rich past that allowed the new creative director to segue into his own vision for the future.

That vision was defined by lightness and modernity. The audience delighted in spotting sacred Dior codes reinterpreted through Anderson’s lens. The iconic New Look suiting that put Christian Dior on the map in 1947 re-emerged in shrunken form, raising the nipped-in waist to an Empire waistline. An evening dress in Chantilly lace was worked with visible boning to create volume through angelic wings where it once constructed an hourglass figure.

The collection was a continuation of Anderson’s men’s wear debut last season, which teased the idea of dressing up by dressing down. A denim shirt and bow tie, pleated knit capes, a tuxedo shirt pyjama set, kitten heels with bunny ears and the classic Lady Dior bag in soft suede furthered the concept. With an astonishing 73 looks, the designer offered something for just about everyone.

Tom Ford

In contrast to Dior’s luminous venue, Tom Ford’s narrative unfolded in darkness. Haider Ackermann, now in his sophomore season as the label’s creative director, played with contrasts. (Ackermann also oversees Toronto-based Canada Goose, where he’s been transforming the brand from outerwear to prêt-à-porter since stepping in last year.)

Male and female models in slick mafia coifs and razor-cut bobs snaked the runway, not to the customary music but to audio static occasionally interrupted by silence. Standout looks included a medley of Saturday Night Fever-inspired suits in cream, mint, pink and blue, as well as one in caramel leather; lacquered trench coats; a black negligée dress with one stray strap, à la Madame X; and a backless, strapless gown resembling Play-Doh moulded onto the front of the body.

Balmain

Olivier Rousteing displayed a different version of sexy at Balmain – one of an ultra-bronzed, boho Parisienne with loose hair, crochet dresses, parachute pants and peasant blouses.

Everything was off-the-cuff and off-the-shoulder in earthy tones of cream, moss, sand, bark, sienna and burnt orange. The vibe was beachy but urban, slouchy and swingy, with lots of movement: long-fringed and shell purses, tassel belts and strands upon strands of beaded necklaces. The most daring looks included a towel-wrap dress and an amethyst tank worn like body armour.

Rick Owens

It was not a coincidence that Rick Owens chose the forecourt of Palais de Tokyo for his Spring/Summer 2026 show. The venue is conveniently located across the street from Palais Galliera, where a retrospective of his life’s work is currently on display.

Standing in rows like the zombies in Michael Jackson’s Thriller video, Owens’ apocalyptic army was draped in black, white and nude fabrics like something out of Dune. The designer’s version of the wide-shoulder trend came by way of XL epaulettes.

For the finale, models descended a wide metallic staircase in commanding platform boots and entered a shallow pool, creating the impression of walking on water.

Virgil Abloh

Virgil Abloh would have been 45 on September 30. There was no better day to launch Virgil Abloh: The Codes at the Grand Palais, an exhibition organized by Nike and the Virgil Abloh Archive.

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Sneakers at the “Virgil Abloh: The Codes” exhibit at Paris Fashion Week.Benoit Tessier/Reuters

The ephemeral display shines a light on the short but highly influential career of a visionary gone too soon. Groundbreaking concept store Colette, which closed in 2017, makes a comeback in the form of a mini pop-up selling double-branded candles, skateboards and alarm clocks.

Christian Louboutin

After last year’s splashy extravaganza at the historic Molitor hotel swimming pool, how does Louboutin one-up himself? With a football game of Superbowl proportions, of course. Guests entered Paris’s Dojo arena to find a mini football field with goalposts made up of two signature Louboutin logo heels.

A giant overhead kiss-cam searched the crowd for Jaden Smith, the label’s new men’s designer. It found him on the sidelines seated next to Christian Louboutin and outfitted accordingly in Louboutin-red football attire.

Photographer and music video director David LaChapelle was behind the spectacle, which meant there was lots of delicious eye candy on hand: ladies completing touchdowns in high heels, a dancing sea horse, and cheerleaders and football players leaping around.

Open this photo in gallery:

Christian Louboutin at Paris Fashion Week. Jaden Smith, Will Smith’s son, is the label’s new men’s designer.Christian Louboutin/Supplied

A giant tiered cake with an inflatable cherry on top emerged, showcasing Louboutin’s iconic Ballerina Ultima – a radical design from 2007 that captures the foot in a dancer’s en pointe position. The label’s new Cassia collection takes this idea and runs with it, offering both heels and flat lace-ups with ballet-inspired square toes.

Why not showcase the new collection in a ballet studio? Nobody knows, but nobody’s complaining. Mr. Louboutin was clearly having the most fun, donning a military uniform and beating his snare drum to a band rendition of the White Stripes’ Seven Nation Army.

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