While Toronto may be known for its endless list of culturally rich and deliciously diverse cuisine, it doesn’t exactly have a strong roster of Viennese restaurants. In fact, I’d be willing to wager that most Torontonians (myself, a self appointed foodie, included) would struggle to name a second. Which is exactly why this hidden gem feels like such a find.
Stowed inside the city’s beloved True History Brewery, known for its German and Austrian lagers, is one of the city’s best kept secrets.
Yes, I’m well aware that phrase is often overused by many of us food lovers alike but this time I really do mean it.
Opened in April 2024 by partners Caleb Way and Charlotte Castro-Guerra, Beisl, pronounced BYE-zl, takes its name from the classic Viennese word for a casual neighbourhood tavern. And in a city where European comfort food is having a moment, often in the form of a cozy French dish in a dimly lit dining room, Beisl is serving up all of that humble comfort with a fresh palette of flavours.
The concept itself is one that lived in Way’s mind since his early adolescence. Having spent the better half of his formative years living in Vienna from ages 12 to 18, he always dreamed of executing a menu as an homage to his roots in the city he now calls home.
While working in kitchens across the city, partners Way and Castro-Guerra recognized that Toronto’s rent can be brutal—but they still believed their dream could become reality. That dream finally took shape when a mutual friend, the owner of Dam Sandwiches, stepped in. After initially offering them a spot in True History’s kitchen, Aidan connected the pair with the brewery. Everything clicked when the team realized that True History’s long-standing expertise in German-style lagers paired perfectly with the hearty Austro-Bavarian dishes Way had always planned to serve.
In true Toronto fashion, this now cult neighbourhood spot doesn’t take reservations. A result of both the brewery’s initial intentions and the couple’s experience working in hot spots across the city like Hanmoto and Shaker’s club. And let’s be honest, here in Toronto there’s nothing more satisfying than snagging a spot at the city’s current hot spot sans reservation.
This excitement not only fuels the customers but drives the owners themselves.
“It works really well,” Castro-Guerra says. “It can be stressful not knowing how many people will walk in, but it’s part of the excitement.”
Despite the casual approach, the dining room fills up fast, and the restaurant often sells out, especially on weekends.
The menu itself, built on the back of Way’s Viennese influence, is constantly updating and refreshing, often bringing at least one new dish every four weeks to the masses. A pace driven less by trend forecasters and more by his own creative restlessness.
Still, the classics remain: Traditional Viennese-style Schnitzel, thin, crisp, and rich, served with a side of sauerkraut salad to cut through that deep fry. The secret sleeper on the menu: the Käsespätzle, their house-made egg noodles finished with crispy onions and a Mornay sauce. An elevated, lush, velvety riff on a classic cheese sauce of sorts.
For the adventurous eaters, don’t miss the Beef Cheek Goulash: a slow-braised, paprika-forward stew rich with warm spices and smoky undertones, simmered until the meat practically melts into the sauce, then finished with a generous dollop of full-fat sour cream.
With the holidays fast approaching, this food writer couldn’t resist asking the inevitable question: what’s the festive choice on the menu? The answer: an Austrian twist on the classic British Sunday roast. Beisl’s version is a feast for two, swapping the expected chicken for succulent pork hock. Paired with generous helpings of braised cabbage, mushrooms, sauerkraut, roasted potatoes and a rich demi-glace, it tastes like something someone’s grandmother spent all day preparing.
“It doesn’t necessarily feel holiday-specific,” Castro-Guerra says, home-style dish we have.” “but it is the most comforting,
At just 27 and 28, Way and Castro-Guerra are part of a wave of young Toronto restaurateurs building their own lane outside traditional dining rooms. Way has cooked since he was 18; Castro-Guerra spent a decade in front-of-house roles before briefly jumping into the kitchen for the restaurant’s early days.
And if things continue the way they’ve been going? “You can assume there will be more to come from us,” she hints.
Beisl is located at 1154 St. Clair Avenue West.
