How contemporary designers are reshaping perceptions of African fashion | Canada Voices

When you think of African fashion, you might imagine a traditional costume made of ankara or aso oke fabrics – the kind of outfit you might see at a Ghanaian wedding or Nigerian birthday party. Not something you’d encounter every day.

But a few designers are redefining what African fashion looks like with the help of African Fashion Week Toronto (AFWT).

Established 14 years ago by Isaac Ansah and Anita Aboagye, AFWT is a platform and initiative created to support Black designers, models and other creatives pursuing careers in the fashion industry.

The platform held its annual slate of shows and events from Aug. 20-23 at locations around the city. Friday’s event took place in Sankofa Square, while Saturday’s showcase was held at the National Event Venue in North York. The program featured designers from all over the world.

Among them was Jamaican-Canadian designer Stacey-Ann Vassell, whose label, Nuyu By Stacy, specializes in women’s and children’s wear. Vassell, who works with ankara prints, said that AFWT has enabled her to collaborate with other creatives in the industry, including photographers such as Cindy Hains.

“The shows are professional. And because of the level of professionalism in the show, it’s built a lot of credibility over the years for me,” she said.

Nuyu By Stacy started as a pandemic side project in 2020. Vassell, previously a dance director at Toronto’s Elite Dance and Company, recalled that her niece needed face masks to play outside. Vassell started sewing and selling masks made of African prints, throwing them down to customers from her balcony. In response to the positive feedback, she expanded into children’s clothes.

AFWT opened international doors for her, she said. Vassell has showcased and sold her designs in Brazil, Egypt and Dubai. She also recently partnered with Yaser & Mayasa, a Dubai textile manufacturing company.

The creative believes in creating African fashion that can be worn everywhere.

“We’re using African and Caribbean print in a modern way, so that people can wear it every day and everywhere,” she said, citing her brand’s ankara print shorts as an example. “We don’t create fashion that is strictly for a particular culture or event.”

Kurve Kouture by Erika Enyolu is a Canadian luxury brand that designs limited-edition, size-inclusive fashion. Enyolu is also the head of public relations and media relations at AFWT.

Enyolu said AFWT has given her the opportunity to showcase her young brand’s designs in front of new audiences and potential customers.

“It’s really awesome seeing your pieces on an actual runway and seeing the people smiling,” she said. “People have even asked for pieces they want to wear for their upcoming birthdays.”

Enyolu added that events such as this one help up-and-coming designers like herself who are trying to expand their businesses.

What started as an attempt to reconnect with her roots by visiting Nigeria after the pandemic birthed an inspiration to start her own fashion brand.

“I want to celebrate my culture without being boxed into what people may think African fashion should look like,” Enyolu said, adding that some people might believe African fashion should be tribal and almost theatrical.

“I want any person around the world, no matter your race or culture, to feel they can wear my brand.”

The event also included runway presentations by designers from Ghana, Ivory Coast, Nigeria and Europe, along with fashion awards, musical performances by artists such as Jeffrey Benson and Tash Simone, a marketplace, trunk show and after-party at Spaces Toronto in the Queen West neighbourhood. Previous years have featured a student designer contest.

Ansah, AFWT’s co-founder, said the organization also hosts seminars and workshops that “teach creatives in our industry how to find the right partners, how to do social media, and how to brand yourself.”

He added that the platform exists to open people’s eyes to African creativity.

“We want to use fashion to change the narrative people have of Africa,” he said.

AFWT partners with Afro Centre For the Arts, a not-for-profit organization that supports youth and adults in the GTA through creative programs, projects and mentorship.

Speaking about the initiative’s impact, Brenda Foreman, president of Afro Centre for the Arts and creative director of AFWT, said it has helped unify the African diaspora, provide economic empowerment and champion models and designers.

She highlighted labels that previously participated in AFWT and are now succeeding on a larger scale, including Kaela Kay, Kyle Gervacy and Israella Kobla, the latter of which received The Bay’s Fashion Fund award in 2022.