Hester Creek Estate Winery farms some of the oldest vinifera vines in the Okanagan, including the original plantings of trebbiano, pinot blanc and other vines brought from northern Italy by Joe Busnardo.Hester Creek Estate Winery/Supplied
One of the Okanagan’s founding wineries, Hester Creek Estate Winery, has become a testament to the resilience and innovation required to succeed in the wine business. The winery, which farms some of the earliest vinifera grape vines planted in British Columbia, aims to increase production from 80,000 to 100,000 cases to meet demand for its extensive portfolio.
Based in Oliver, in a region known as the Golden Mile Bench appellation, the winery is also looking to expand sales outside of British Columbia, making the strategic move to work with the LCBO to market four wines this year, including an unusual red blend called Character Red and a chardonnay that are featured in the Aug. 2 Vintages release.
“It’s important to be able to have our wines available across the whole country, not just in British Columbia,” says Mark Hopley, who has worked at Hester Creek since 2013.
Hester Creek is located on the property where Joe Busnardo planted grapevines that he brought in his suitcase when he emigrated from northern Italy in 1968, including cabernet franc, trebbiano and merlot. He opened Divino Estate Winery in 1983, which would be renamed after the creek that runs alongside the southern side of the property in the 1990s.
The fledgling operation became a wine destination after entrepreneur Curt Garland bought Hester Creek in 2004, investing in quality winemaking equipment and establishing a Tuscan-themed restaurant and accommodations that continue to lure wine tourists.
Hester Creek produces 24 wines from its own vineyards and sites contracted in the Okanagan. Production has expanded, although winter frosts have reduced the crops for the 2023 and 2024 harvest.
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Mark Sheridan, Hester Creek’s president, says selling to the LCBO is a way to supply the guests from Ontario they have hosted at the winery. He hopes provincial trade barriers limiting direct-to-consumer sales will be lifted to offer additional sales channels.
“I think Canadian consumers are getting more educated and want to try a more diverse selection of wines from across the country,” he says.
Sheridan explains that the wines slated for LCBO release were intentionally selected to showcase a range of styles and quality levels. An old-vine cabernet franc from 2022 and a flagship Bordeaux-style red from the 2021 vintage called the Judge are set for release later in the year. “We want to give people a true indication of what we can do here,” he says.
Reviews of Hester Creek wines are featured this week alongside two other impressive Canadian selections released this week at LCBO Vintages outlets and online. There’s also an enticing cabernet sauvignon from the Similkameen produced by the Stewart family’s Plume label that’s built for the cellar.
Benjamin Bridge Wild Rock 2024 (Canada), $22.95
Rating: 88
This unoaked blend was designed to contrast the vibrant and intense white wines typical to Nova Scotia vineyards. A combination of ortega and l’acadie blanc with small additions of chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and other varieties, this was designed to have a crowd-pleasing soft and round character. Serve chilled, but not cold, to amplify the fruity, floral and herbal notes. This has 10.5 per cent ABV and 4.4 g/litre r.s. Drink now. Available at the above price in Ontario, $19.99 direct, benjaminbridge.com, various prices in Alberta and Manitoba, $23.99 in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia (Bishop’s Cellar).
Hester Creek Character Red 2023 (Canada), $32.95
Hester Creek Estate Winery/Supplied
Rating: 91
This distinctive red blend from Hester Creek’s Golden Mile Bench vineyards includes petit verdot, malbec and syrah with merlot from vines imported from northern Italy and planted in 1968. A savoury and satisfying red wine that gains added complexity from eight months of aging in French and American oak barrels, this offers layers of dark fruit, savoury and herbal flavours. This has 12.8 per cent ABV and 4 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2029. Available at the above price in Ontario, $22.99 direct, hestercreek.com.
Hester Creek Chardonnay 2023 (Canada), $35.95
Hester Creek Estate Winery/Supplied
Rating: 90
This is a nicely balanced and harmonious barrel-fermented chardonnay produced from vineyards on the Golden Mile Bench in the south Okanagan. Made in a medium-bodied style, this dry white wine reveals apple, pear and citrus fruit with spice, toast and vanilla accents. This has 12.7 ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2028. Available at the above price in Ontario, $25.99 in British Columbia, $24.99 direct, hestercreek.com.
Plume Cabernet Sauvignon 2022 (Canada), $52
Bacas Family Wines/Supplied
Rating: 92
The Stewart family expanded its winemaking interests from Quails’ Gate in the Okanagan to California, where they launched the Plume label with cabernet sauvignons produced in Napa and Sonoma. This enticing example comes from a vineyard in the Similkameen as the Plume concept expands to include other regions, including Washington State and Oregon. Dry and distinctive, this is a focused red wine with sage, laurel and floral notes contributing lift to the core of cassis and plum fruit. Decant for best enjoyment. This has 14 per cent ABV and 1 g/litre r.s. Drink 2026 to 2034. Available direct, quailsgate.com.
Soren Boundary Spring Red 2022 (Canada), $38.95
Rating: 92
Soren is a virtual winery operated by Geoffrey Moss, a master of wine and wine marketer, and Ryan McKibbon, winemaker at Black Hills Estate Winery in the southern Okanagan. The two met while attending Niagara College’s wine program and launched this venture with a viognier made in the 2021. Their Boundary Spring red blend is produced with cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, malbec and syrah from a vineyard in the Similkameen. Each variety was aged independently in French oak before the best barrels were selected. The result is a fragrant and flavourful red that suggests a complex mix of ripe and tart red fruit, and herbal, floral and spicy notes. It’s nicely integrated and has potential to age. This has 14 per cent ABV and 2 g/litre r.s. Drink now to 2032. Available at the above price in Ontario, $35 direct, soren.wine, $46.99 in Manitoba (Jones & Company).
