Helen Goh, formerly the lead pastry developer at Yotam Ottolenghi’s London restaurant empire, believes in the power of baking. In her latest cookbook, Baking and the Meaning of Life — Goh also co-authored two books with Ottolenghi, Sweet and Ottolenghi Comfort — she goes deep into the pure pleasures of mixing dough and crafting crusts as a creative practice. Here, the focus is on the type of bakes — sweets ranging from pastries to cakes, tarts to crackers — that are often deemed superfluous compared to sustenance baking like bread. But “baking is deeply entwined with nurturing and being nurtured, both in its practice and in its symbolism,” Goh writes. “It’s an act of connection, of celebration, and a way to express love and care.”
For this savory pear, pepper, and Parmesan cake, Goh adapted a savory Parmesan cake recipe from Sophie Grigson’s 1992 book Sophie’s Table to add just a touch of sweetness. “In went some pepper, and the addition of a little honey together with thyme and hazelnuts on top completed the transformation of this bake into a savory, slightly sweet, somewhat surprising and very tasty cake,” Goh writes.
And, perfect for pre-holiday gathering prep, Goh suggests making the cake one day prior to serving, if possible: “The texture seems to settle over time and the flavors somehow meld, like unlikely friends who need a little time to get to know each other.”
Pear, Pepper, and Parmesan Cake Recipe
1 firm, ripe pear
1 cup (125 grams) all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
¾ teaspoon fine sea salt
3 ounces (80 grams) Parmesan cheese, finely grated
1/3 cup (60 grams) fine semolina flour
1 teaspoon freshly cracked black pepper
3 large eggs, separated
6 tablespoons (90 grams) unsalted butter, melted and cooled
¾ cup (180 ml) whole milk
2 tablespoons honey
¼ cup (30 grams) hazelnuts, roasted, then roughly chopped
A few sprigs of thyme
Step 1: Line the bottom and sides of an 8-inch (20 cm) round cake pan (preferably with a removable bottom) with parchment paper.
Step 2: Slice the unpeeled pear lengthwise into four equal pieces. Cut away the core, then slice each quarter lengthwise into five so you have 20 thin spears altogether.
Step 3: Sift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a medium bowl, then stir in the grated Parmesan, semolina flour, and pepper.
Step 4: Whisk together the egg yolks, butter, and milk in a small bowl, then add the mixture to the dry ingredients, folding to combine to a thick batter.
Step 5: Preheat the oven to 375˚F (190˚C).
Step 6: Place the egg whites into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the whisk attachment and whisk until soft peaks form. This is a relatively small amount of egg whites, so use a handheld whisk if that feels easier. Fold one-third of the beaten egg whites into the batter, mix to loosen it a little, then fold in the remaining egg whites. Be gentle but thorough — there should be no white streaks of egg white visible when you are finished, but be careful not to overmix, as this deflates the egg whites and can lead to a heavy or dense cake.
Step 7: Scrape the batter into the prepared cake pan, then arrange the slices of pear on top of the batter (you may not use them all). Bake for about 40 minutes or until a skewer inserted into the middle of the cake comes out clean. Transfer the cake to a wire rack to cool in the pan for a few minutes, then turn out onto the wire rack to cool completely.
Step 8: To serve, warm the honey gently, either in a small saucepan on the stovetop or for a few seconds in the microwave. Once the honey is warm and runny, use a pastry brush to dab it evenly all over the pears on top of the cake. Scatter the chopped hazelnuts on top and garnish with a few sprigs of thyme.
Recipe excerpted from Baking and the Meaning of Life: How to Find Joy in 100 Recipes by Helen Goh. Copyright © 2025 by Helen Goh. Photographs copyright © 2025 by Laura Edwards. Published by Abrams.
Haley Hunt Davis is an Atlanta and L.A.-based food, beverage and product photographer. Styled by Ryan Norton, an Atlanta-based food stylist and macaron maker at La Macaron Guy.
