At this remote lodge, B.C.’s backcountry adventure is cocooned by fine linen and gourmet cuisine | Canada Voices

I didn’t need to cross the country to do a cold plunge – after all, I live next to Lake Ontario and I summer at Lake Superior.

But in the waters of Clayoquot Sound on Vancouver Island, I learned how to do it right, to submerge with intent and truly reap the health benefits of two minutes in 8-degree water. The young, old souls that lead the early morning ritual at Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge showed me it’s a mental and physical accomplishment that anyone can manage with breathing exercises, core warm-up and a little joyful whooping.

It all seemed a bit over the top at first, but the expertly-led experience has made me a convert. It wouldn’t be the last time the staff made me feel like a rock star at this remote glamping lodge – one that’s earned three Michelin keys and is raved about in all the best travel publications.

There are no roads to get to the lodge; instead, guests arrive by speedboat from Tofino or a seaplane from Vancouver. Both take about 45 minutes. As you get closer, you’ll start spotting safari tents perched along the Clayoquot Sound inlet; 25 in total. Though, calling them tents feels wrong – the canvas walls house a large boutique hotel room, with king-size beds, cashmere blankets, cedarwood ensuites with heated floors and outdoor showers under trees dripping with old man’s beard moss. Coffee arrives each morning in Yeti mugs to sip on your private porch, or in bed, where you can easily reach switches for the cast-iron heating stove and outlets for charging your devices.

The lodge was famously booked by Elton John and his Canadian partner David Furnish for three weeks in 2022, it’s where Scarlett Johansson and Ryan Reynolds wed in 2008, and where affluent vacationers disappear every summer to find secluded, all-inclusive luxury. It’s a corner of true wilderness in a UNESCO biosphere reserve, cocooned with fine linens and excellent cocktails.

In this summer of renewed Canadian exploration, those who prefer outdoor adventure followed by a massage and gourmet cuisine, who’d rather trim a long hike in half by taking a helicopter back, and can shoulder a nightly rate that starts at $4,000, should know they are well-served here.

Just don’t expect to be on your phone. Cell service is non-existent and while each tent has excellent WiFi, the signal dies when you step into the common areas. That’s intentional. It reminds guests to enjoy their surroundings. Each night, visitors point out wildlife to one another at the bar (where floor-to-ceiling windows overlook the Bedwell River estuary) and check in on each other’s adventures on the way to the dinner table. “Did you hike up to Penny Falls, yet? No? You must – it’s hard but totally worth it.”

There’s always lots to talk about, especially when the lodge’s guides know how to lead guests confidently out of their comfort zone. It happened to me a few times during a four-day stay earlier this summer. I’m a beginner on horseback, but I somehow managed to trot my horse successfully, buoyed by the coastal rainforest trails. Our guide Ella Kohn asked her two newbies if they’d like to cross the Bedwell.

“Really? Sure!” we cried out with enthusiasm and maybe too much confidence.

The horses picked their way along the rocky beach toward the rushing river. (Ummm how deep was it? It was too late to ask.) Stumbling occasionally, the horses moved into the glacial stream that was definitely going to get me wet. I gripped the saddle horn with one hand, reins in the other and worked hard to keep my balance. Then, ice-cold water filled my cowboy boots. Wow. Okay!

Ella, perfectly turned out in a long leather duster and matching cowboy hat, looked back over her shoulder. She noticed we were both wandering off course as we tried to stay upright. But she let us figure it out, let us remember our training. It was a surprise to be trusted to do the work. (I suspect she also knew the horses could handle us.) Either way, even with wet feet in wet boots, the yank out of my comfort zone was a thrill and one I won’t soon forget.

That tug happened again up in the mountains. I took that guest’s recommendation and joined the Penny Falls hiking group. We e-biked over bumpy old logging roads to reach the trailhead and enjoyed the amble through old and new growth forests. But then the trail went straight up. Ropes and boulder-clambering brought us to an emerald-green glacial pond and waterfall suspended in the forest. We cooled off in the water. It was magical.

Visiting the abandoned gold mine nearby was fun until the darkness freaked me out. Going down was dicey – I had to find footholds and handholds, working with ropes and my wits. Here, too, the guides watched carefully and waited for me to figure it out. They stood near enough to save me, but not close enough to make me feel crowded. That kind of mother hen support (from someone much younger) was surprisingly empowering.

That’s what makes this retreat worth the expense for many – not just the top-notch food and drink, but attentive staff that pay attention, who bring what you need before you realize you need it.

There’s the bartender, who soothes an irritable guest by sliding over his favourite drink before he’s had a chance to order. (The same bartender who creates a salmonberry cocktail because he’s heard you are now obsessed with the berry’s tart, sometimes sweet, orangey goodness, and pick them every day.) From the chefs who create exquisite meals in the wilderness to the wait staff who know your name, speak knowledgeably about your order and don’t forget food intolerances or allergies, this resort is a haven for the finer things in life.

Here, guests connect offline. No one is on their phone unless it’s to show off the sea wolf or black bear or flotilla of sea otters they saw on a tour. Strangers bond over shared experiences and the delight of conquering a little adversity. Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge might be one of the best ways to experience Vancouver Island’s backcountry without leaving much of your latte lifestyle behind.

If you go

Clayoquot Wilderness Lodge is open May through late September and offers three- and four-night packages, or week-long stays. All-inclusive rates include glamping accommodation, all meals, beverages and two adventures a day. Transfers from Tofino or Vancouver’s seaplane terminal are extra, and so are any helicopter excursions. For more details, visit clayoquotwildernesslodge.com.

The writer was a guest of the resort. It did not review or approve the story before publication.